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Routes in The East Quarry

Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chum S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Defective Agency S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Fish S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goonch, The TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Wide Shark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harambe Lives V4- 6B
Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R
Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Hidden Slab V3- 6A
High Tide S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Old Man and the Sea S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pigeon of the Sea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pinkerton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pretzel Logic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Shark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea Urchin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slap Happy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiger Shark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Weakfish S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mike Cichon
Page Views: 1,291 total · 12/month
Shared By: mike c on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description [Edit]

This was first led on aid rope solo ground up clean and hand drilled the bolt anchor. The FFA was a little dicey, but there is a gear placement every 2 feet if you want. Not every one is bomber, but there are enough good ones to keep you sort of safe...for a take, not a fall. It is an ok crack system with some sweet face moves. It has a very hard, semi-chossy finish to get to the chains.

Location [Edit]

This route is just 10 feet right of Sand Shark.

Protection [Edit]

100% traditional. New anchor. Standard rack, from smallest Aliens up to #1 Camalot. Also some small wires and RPs.

Eds. Mike Cichon recently added 6 bolts.

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mike c
golden
 
mike c   golden
 
Led this again for the second time after a year and got a little bit beat down...like a lot of the trad routes here, it's best to aid and toprope prior to a lead.... Yeah, it's marginal style, but the moves are tricky and unique and so is the gear. Some placements are ok but most are unreliable...I think it's called headpoint style, but I'm not sure exactly.... Definitely 5.11 something...only one lead to date...and I did it after about 7 or 8 TR burns to suss out the moves and the gear...the gear is better to be tested on aid under full weight at least...after you lead this everything else there won't be so bad...I'm not sure if anyone or anything has repeated it. Feb 28, 2010
mike c
golden
 
mike c   golden
 
I recently added bolts (6) to this old testpiece. It is much safer now! Cosmic moves the whole way. The bolts and hangers were generously donated to the route by Kirk Miller. Thanks, Kirk! Mar 23, 2016
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
Right backatcha for sure! What a great addition to a great little cliff!!! Thanks for having the vision to open up this route and for the vision to retro for the masses. Bet it was exciting to lead on gear!!! Mar 25, 2016
Troy Tadlock
Arvada, CO
Troy Tadlock   Arvada, CO
Much respect for Mike leading this on gear. Terrifying! Goes great as a safe lead now. Sustained thoughtful body position climbing. Should clean up some more with traffic and become a classic. Dec 28, 2016

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