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Routes in The East Quarry

Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chum S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Defective Agency S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Fish S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goonch, The TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Great Wide Shark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harambe Lives V4- 6B
Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+
Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R
Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Hidden Slab V3- 6A
High Tide S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Old Man and the Sea S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pigeon of the Sea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pinkerton S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pretzel Logic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Shark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea Urchin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slap Happy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiger Shark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Weakfish S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Greg Bilinski
Page Views: 518 total · 8/month
Shared By: maestro bilinski on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description [Edit]

Battle of the Bulbus says it all for this route. Squeeze and balance your way up the high steppin' rock of this new edition to the East Quarry Wall.

Location [Edit]

Start in the crack of Tendonkey Punch, then move left. Finish with two bolt anchor left.

Protection [Edit]

7 bolts and two bolt anchor to the left.

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Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
This can be made more difficult by climbing directly up the face and avoiding the crack feature for the first couple of bolts. Not sure which start is better, but the crux "battle" is unavoidable and quite fun. Clip the chains on the left. Mar 24, 2013
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
This is a good addition to the East Quarry Wall, even though not one of the 4 star classics. The climb has 5 protection bolts & 2 anchor bolts (saying it has 7 bolts, generally means protection bolts). Adding another bolt between the 3rd & 4th bolts would improve the climb, allowing the crux moves to be worked without taking whippers.

It is my understanding that the route can be climbed two different ways between 3rd & 4th bolts. The easier, indirect line goes left to "High Tide", then back right. The direct line is not so obvious, quite thin, & much harder (5.12c?). I am curious how first ascentionist, Greg Bilinsky, climbed this section. Other climbers said that holds have broken on the direct line.
I climbed the indirect line. For my redpoint run, I had a long sling on 4th bolt to clip from the left side of the bulbus,(a very short left-facing corner with a rounded hold at its top) to protect a left hand deadpoint to a good hold shared with "High Tide". Once on the shelf, I was able to step up & reach the 4th bolt for an easy clip. Then sidepulls lead back right.
Falling onto the 3rd bolt if you blow the deadpoint is an unpleasant
swinging fall, that I took working the moves. If you go straight up, expect to log some flight time unless you have worked this section on top rope first or pre-clipped a long sling. These bolts are a full 6 feet apart. Clip holds on the direct line are small. Feb 18, 2014

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