Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Greg Bilinski
Page Views: 539 total · 8/month
Shared By: maestro bilinski on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Battle of the Bulbus says it all for this route. Squeeze and balance your way up the high steppin' rock of this new edition to the East Quarry Wall.

Location

Start in the crack of Tendonkey Punch, then move left. Finish with two bolt anchor left.

Protection

7 bolts and two bolt anchor to the left.

Photos

- No Photos -
Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
This can be made more difficult by climbing directly up the face and avoiding the crack feature for the first couple of bolts. Not sure which start is better, but the crux "battle" is unavoidable and quite fun. Clip the chains on the left. Mar 24, 2013
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
This is a good addition to the East Quarry Wall, even though not one of the 4 star classics. The climb has 5 protection bolts & 2 anchor bolts (saying it has 7 bolts, generally means protection bolts). Adding another bolt between the 3rd & 4th bolts would improve the climb, allowing the crux moves to be worked without taking whippers.

It is my understanding that the route can be climbed two different ways between 3rd & 4th bolts. The easier, indirect line goes left to "High Tide", then back right. The direct line is not so obvious, quite thin, & much harder (5.12c?). I am curious how first ascentionist, Greg Bilinsky, climbed this section. Other climbers said that holds have broken on the direct line.
I climbed the indirect line. For my redpoint run, I had a long sling on 4th bolt to clip from the left side of the bulbus,(a very short left-facing corner with a rounded hold at its top) to protect a left hand deadpoint to a good hold shared with "High Tide". Once on the shelf, I was able to step up & reach the 4th bolt for an easy clip. Then sidepulls lead back right.
Falling onto the 3rd bolt if you blow the deadpoint is an unpleasant
swinging fall, that I took working the moves. If you go straight up, expect to log some flight time unless you have worked this section on top rope first or pre-clipped a long sling. These bolts are a full 6 feet apart. Clip holds on the direct line are small. Feb 18, 2014