Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||184 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a slightly inviting chimney to those of us iguanadon types. Oddly, it climbs somewhat like a desert route. Now perhaps the most interesting part is that you could lead this with a #1 Camalot rack and smaller.
Ascend the wide crack/chimney to the left of Good Ju-Ju on easier-than-it-looks climbing. On my first lead of it, I brought up some Craig Luebben's thesis Bigbros thinking I'd need them. Fiddling with a so-so #3 and clipping it, I found a blind #1 Camalot placement at that level further in. You can offwidth chimney (as I did the first go) or face climb a bit on the outside. Left side in or right side in works a bit higher. Gain the ledge. Now, you can do Good Ju-Ju's finish to the right or finish with a minor between the ears crux to the left. There's a blue Alien, #0 TCU spot reachable from the ledge. A wee nip of courage will get you up to the top. For what it's worth, on first lead, I got on top, placed a #0.75 Camalot, and downscrambled to Good Ju-Ju's anchor, but the crack for the #0.75 isn't supported, so I unclipped it leaving the directional above the top of the left crux as the directional for seconds.