Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: an iguanadon
Page Views: 217 total · 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is a slightly inviting chimney to those of us iguanadon types. Oddly, it climbs somewhat like a desert route. Now perhaps the most interesting part is that you could lead this with a #1 Camalot rack and smaller.

Ascend the wide crack/chimney to the left of Good Ju-Ju on easier-than-it-looks climbing. On my first lead of it, I brought up some Craig Luebben's thesis Bigbros thinking I'd need them. Fiddling with a so-so #3 and clipping it, I found a blind #1 Camalot placement at that level further in. You can offwidth chimney (as I did the first go) or face climb a bit on the outside. Left side in or right side in works a bit higher. Gain the ledge. Now, you can do Good Ju-Ju's finish to the right or finish with a minor between the ears crux to the left. There's a blue Alien, #0 TCU spot reachable from the ledge. A wee nip of courage will get you up to the top. For what it's worth, on first lead, I got on top, placed a #0.75 Camalot, and downscrambled to Good Ju-Ju's anchor, but the crack for the #0.75 isn't supported, so I unclipped it leaving the directional above the top of the left crux as the directional for seconds.

Location

This starts just left of Good Ju-Ju.

Protection

What worked: #3 Bigbro (optional), #1 Camalot, red Alien, #0.5, blue Alien, #0 TCU, green Alien, and a #0.75 (super iffy). 4 longer (24") slings are useful. Lower/rap off Good Ju-Ju's anchor.

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