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Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Antifa Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Heads T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gold Chains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Bill Price, Augie Klein, 1980
Page Views: 1,020 total · 28/month
Shared By: Jack Hamm on Feb 16, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Follows a thin seam with large pods to a two bolt anchor with rings. It's to the right of Desperate Straights (the chimney flake).

Aid at C2.
Free at 5.12a.

Protection

Micro offset nuts. Cams to 1". Medium camhook, medium pecker. Top rope to free at 5.12a (or I suppose terrifying gear on lead).

Photos

tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
We did the first pitch only, an underrated climb that would be a 5-star classic if it didn’t look so damn intimidating from the ground (and was 40 feet longer).

The bolt at the first crux protects the technical, delicate and improbable movement through a mind blowing section of double gastoning before your first piece of gear. A powerful lieback move at the second crux leads to delicate climbing to the anchor. Although this pitch can be sewn up with gear, use caution when placing so as not to block needed finger locks, edges and foot pods.

A few medium and small nuts and a single-set from black alien to purple C4 (and an optional red C4 for the top) will sew it up.

I’m curious about the second pitch. Oct 23, 2017
Erik Griffith
Yosemite National Park, CA
  5.12a
Erik Griffith   Yosemite National Park, CA
  5.12a
A bolt has been added to keep you off the deck before you get your first piece. No more hook shenanigans. Super safe and super fun to lead as a free climb. Cool movement and some short powerful sections. All about the feet for this one! Sep 24, 2017
Sirius
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA

More About Cat's Squirrel

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