Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: 1978 Jim Beyer, Mike Sawyer, and Bob Sullivan
Page Views: 2,088 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A left facing corner with a huge crack in it to a roof, to another left facing corner. The business is the crack and the roof. Lieback or whatever to the roof, then make the nice moves out to your left. The corner above goes down pretty mellow.

Location

left of the Desperate Straights corner.

Protection

Take large-ish pieces, generally good protection but be thoughtful about rope drag. Take some tied slings to redo the anchor (around a tree).

Photos

matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
that tree is pretty hollow looking. you can use bolts from the climb to the right to belay. the roof is really fun Aug 20, 2007
Marc Squiddo
Mountain View, CA
Marc Squiddo   Mountain View, CA
The anchor is scary. I rapped off it and prayed all the way down. I doubt it could handle my weight after a big meal. Apr 6, 2009
Steven Sheets
Livermore, CA
Steven Sheets   Livermore, CA
Tree anchor is lousy and dangerous. But fun climb. Apr 6, 2009
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
agreed. the tree (read, small bush) anchor is lousy. i don't care how many slings you put around it, it doesn't make it any better... Apr 6, 2009
This climb is way right of Desperate Straights. Its actually just to the right of the Tube. Jan 7, 2010
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10a
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10a
Where do you cut right to get to the Boneheads bolt anchors? I could never find a traverse that looked easier than 5.10a (Then again I suck at face climbing :-) )so I trusted the tree - this time. Slings are all stiff and crunchy. I was really tempted to leave a sling but I gave a good bounce test and it seemed OK for the time being. Dec 7, 2011
joe caps
Pasadena
 
joe caps   Pasadena
 
the tree anchor is less than inspiring. if I was to do it again, I would bail to anchors on the right. the top half of the climb is mediocre anyway. Nov 3, 2015
Isaiah Foulks
Monterey
Isaiah Foulks   Monterey
regarding the traverse onto boneheads, ive found a few options: 1) just after the roof moves you can hook straight right and continue up boneheads. 2) continue up for about 10 feet, then move right onto boneheads. 3) go up like 30 feet, then make the traverse onto that big bulging block that goes "dong dong" when you slap it. the third option is fun, as you get a few more crack moves before reverting to face.

all three options are prerty cool, though managing rope drag might be a pain. (ive only tr'd it aftear leading boneheads).

great offwidth training btw, if you need the practice. do the crack without any liebacking or face holds. Mar 28, 2018