Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: 1999 Anderson Family and Dan & Sue McDevitt
Page Views: 2,245 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


109 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The start is tricky bouldering moves with the technical crux. Move up and left onto a cool, steep face with large holds.

Location

Up and right along the cliff from the Sherrie's Crack walk up, beyond the Desperate Straights corner and just right of the Babble On corner.

Protection

Bolts and good opportunities for gear.

Photos

This is a sport climb (8 QD's + 2 for the anchor). Tricky bouldery thin start, but after the second clip you're pulling on easier, jug holds which seemed a-typical for the Valley. Feb 16, 2009
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
  5.10b
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
  5.10b
I don't recall seeing any opportunities for gear on this route that would have made much sense. Most cracks were right next to bolts. I wouldn't bring any cams or nuts. Jun 20, 2009
A fun 10a linkup would be to climb the excellent starting crack of Babble On then pull up onto the face of Boneheads before the traverse under the overhang. Bring a few cams from 2-3.5 inches for the starting crack, but the face above is well protected by bolts. Oct 9, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Crux is between the first few bolts, the rest of the route feels 5.8-5.9. Jan 11, 2010
Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
I did the linkup described by Brian above. Good opportunity to practice some hand stacks at the bottom. Wouldn't have minded a #5 to protect the first few moves. I just walked a #4 until it got good. Then put in a #3 and then a #2 above. Jug hauling on bolts up top was 5.9ish. Nov 26, 2013
Tomko
SANTA CLARA CA
 
Tomko   SANTA CLARA CA
 
Very hard off the ground. Much easier after 2nd and 3rd bolts. Oct 14, 2018