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Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Rick Sylvester, Mike Farrell, 1973.
Page Views: 3,545 total, 26/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This strenous route follows the corner to the right of "Trough of Justice" for two pitches.

Protection

Pro to 3.5"

Photos

Michael Dom  
 
A #5 and #4 help with the beginning. I ended up climbing the undercling variation that goes right and thought that it was awesome. The top was a little dirty and polished before you get to the tree. May 16, 2017
Great climb with a little bit of everything on the first pitch. Took the crack on the right on the second pitch, fingers to hand jams to some 3''-4.5'' or stem. Bird poop everywhere. doubles to #3bd with one four. Oct 18, 2013
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
I have never seen anyone continue up the OW to avoid the 10c var, nor have I seen anyone use the OW to the left.
I know I mentioned it as such earlier, but don't think of it as a step over as much as a reach/fall into the opposite corner. Once you fall into the corner, the jams are so good that stepping into it is easy. To get to the point where you are ready to fall into it, you must climb the crack until it peters out. Set small pro (mental crux) at elbo hight and save the upper finger/tips openings for your right hand. This is tough because everything is thin and small at this point. Then you can lean over and fall to the left into the opposing crack system. This is really a wild move, and the quality of the crack that you fall into is the best at Pat and Jack's IMO. Feb 28, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
Does anyone know how feasible it is to do the 5.9 variation by just taking the left slot with the tree midway up instead of the right slot? Although I've only led a handful of 5.10a's so far, I found the 5.10c variation a better option than attempting to step across to the 5.9 crack. That step across is wide and insecure!

Watch out for loose rocks on top. The bolts at the top are in more of a position for rappelling rather than belaying, so I set up a belay at some rocks higher up. The rope ended up sending rocks down on my follower as I pulled up the slack. Feb 27, 2012
Good choice if you show up early and climbing in the sun is too hot.
Also rarely crowded. Oct 5, 2011
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Pro to 3.5"

I brought a #5 and #6 Camalot and was glad to have them on the first pitch. Apr 13, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Did the .10c undercling variation and I thought it was a lot of fun. Didn't seem too difficult, I have definitely done harder .10c's in the valley. Be mindful of where the pods are in the crack before you step off into the undercling, there are only a few good spots for fingers.

For the second pitch, we stayed in the left crack (the right one seemed dirty). Sustained 5.10- climbing.

For me the real challenge was the offwidth, squeeze chimney at the start of P1. Jan 11, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
  5.10b
Alexey   San Jose
  5.10b
So I was wrong, but hey climbing both variations I still felt that strait var. is harder than layback or at least they is about same .
Part of the problem can be the reach - I am 5.6 Jan 7, 2010
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
The 5.9 is straight up with a big step over to the left and the .10c follows a short undercling on tips out right. It probably takes just as much skill to do the 5.9 as it does to do the .10c. Jan 7, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
  5.10b
Alexey   San Jose
  5.10b
on the first pitch there two variations 5.9 and 10c. I was thinking that 10c is if you going strait up the corner, and 5.9 is layback the flake on the right, but last summer one climber said that they rated opposite. Who is right ? Nov 30, 2009
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
This is my favorite climb at Pat and Jack's. Thankfully the wide section at the bottom keeps the riff-raff out, so there is normally nobody on it.

There are two options for pitch one, and I always choose the 5.9. Awesome granite here and the moves are quite memorable.

Pitch two pulls a roof with hands 5.10 and eventually narrows into an all out stem with tight hand jams and fingers to a two bolt anchor.

Can be done in one pitch with 60m rope if mindful of rope drag. I take doubles for this option.

Rap from a bolted anchor to the tree, then from the slings on the tree to the ground with one 60m. Aug 2, 2008