Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dimitri Barton and Scott Stowe, 1988
Page Views: 1,342 total · 12/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Oct 5, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

(Title edited to reflect the First Ascensionists Comments. I kept Book'em Dano since that is what the route is shown as in the Supertopo guidebook)

Trend right past a thin crack on huge knobs from the belay for Nurdle. This pitch can also be linked with Knob Job or G-Man for a full 60m experience.

Clip a bolt and pull a few hard moves to get established on a huge knob. Clip the final bolt, mantel the large flat knob and hope you are at least 5' 10" or taller.

Those that can't reach the next hold will have to jump. The grade here is proportional to your height and ability to dyno without handholds.

Once the distant hold is reached make some powerful pulls on knobs and incuts to gain the top.

Location

This pitch starts on the ledge halfway up the wall above the main approach trail. Start Via Nurdle, Knob Job or G-Man

Protection

Two bolts and .5" cam (green alien)

There is a rap station at the top and you can descend with two 60 meter ropes.

Photos

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I'm 6' and I had to jump about 6 inches to get the horizontal. I think you'd have to be really tall (6'5"?) to avoid the jump, which is pretty scary onsight! Apr 23, 2014
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
I've TR this before doing the jump without a problem. Tried leading it recently and found myself standing on the huge knob with the bolt at my ankle level. I'm 5'8" and needed only another 3 inches to reach the horizontal. With multiple large knobs to land on in case of flailure I found myself lacking in the sac department and bailed. This climb would have been a lot more enjoyable if that bolt was moved a few feet higher or better yet with another bolt just below the horizontal. It's basically a no-hands stance there, so not placing a bolt on the FA was a contrivance. Oct 20, 2014
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Yeah the FA should have done one more mantle before pulling out the drill. Clipping a bolt to do a 5.6 mantle and then facing an ankle busting runout for the 5.10+ all-points-off dyno is just strange. Oct 20, 2014
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
Hi Dmitri, sorry if I offended you with my comment. I don't know much about drilling from stance as I haven't done any and appreciate your insight as well as all the routes you've FAed in the valley. What do you think about moving the bolt higher to make it safer to lead? I respect the ground-up ethic, but as you know the protection doesn't always end up perfect on the routes established GU. However, that can be corrected in the future... Feb 10, 2015
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
Dmitri, no problem if you prefer to keep it this way. This route is an excellent top rope too! Nov 6, 2015