Type: Trad
FA: Jim Beyer & "Sully" Sullivan (lower 1/2)- Dan and Sue McDevitt (upper 1/2)
Page Views: 498 total · 29/month
Shared By: Jim Beyer on Jan 1, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a connection variation (.8) that connects Gold Chains to the middle part of Skinheads and finishes on the moderate ramp to the Underclingon belay. Start at the oak tree left of Skinheads. Climb up to the 2nd 3/8" bolt and traverse left(.10a) then up to the 4th 3/8" bolt of Gold Chains. Traverse 10' right to bolt. Traverse another 10' (.8) to the first bolt of Bone Heads. Angle up and right to Skinheads and pull fun knobs to ramp and Underclingon anchor. There is one super reachy knob on this otherwise 5.8ish short reach upper section. For my reach (5'7 1/2" in rock shoes- 5'10" finger tip to tip), this reachy crux is .10b. For tall people it is probably .9/10a. For short people it's probably a .11 lunge or A0 on the well located high bolt then .10. Because it is mostly fun 5.8 knob climbing, well protected and both cruxs have high bolts - this route could become very popular. The Antifa Connection is the fun (and easiest) way to climb to the top of this wall covered with just-out-of-reach knobs and hard routes rated for climbers 5'10" and taller who can reach these knobs.

Protection

11 bolts - long slings

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