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Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: George Meyers and Kevin Worrall 1076
Page Views: 4,207 total, 31/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Knob Job is an excellent hand and finger crack that escapes midway up the route onto a series of wild knobs, hence the name. Unique climbing for Yosemite. Well protected. Climb the obvious hand crack until you gain a pair of thin cracks. Follow this through some knobs and trend to the left. Head for a tree that is far to the left of the start. Expect some rope drag at the top. Long pitch.

Location

From the approach trail, this is just to the left. Locate the crack that starts in a wide groove, with the obvious knobby section of wall above.

Protection

Standard Rack, consider doubles for finger and hand size cams.

Photos

aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
5.10a/b
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
5.10a/b
I also appreciated having a third #1 and #2. I thought the meat of the climb was the sustained, glorious hand jamming up to the crux. The crux is short and you get a great rest from which you can hangout and place good gear. Oct 30, 2013
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
This would be a local 4 star classic anywhere else. Sep 10, 2013
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
Same as Andy, tried to go straight up on the thin finger and reached for a small knob to the left - committing move!

Supertopo says the 10b section is the lieback flake, but you don't have to lieback it especially on lead. Use the left finger crack as well for more secured moves, but probably brings the grade down to 5.9?

Fun TR to try the thin right crack all the way from the bottom, tape up because it's sharp Apr 16, 2013
This route now continues as a mix of trad/sport for several pitches (8 total maybe?) Climb up to a bushy ledge, then climb up and left onto mildly overhung easy face with tons of glorious softball sized knobs. Rap the route. Apr 11, 2013
Mareko
San Francisco
  5.10b
Mareko   San Francisco
  5.10b
I would have given the climb another star, if it was straight up crack without knobs. Its an amazing climb. Feb 26, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
P1 is awesome. There are chains here not shown on the Supertopo. P2 (top of Nurdle?) is worth doing once.

I was a bit stumped on the P1 crux for a second until I realized there was a "hidden" crack at right!

The top anchors are quite a ways to the right, so we just rapped straight down with two ropes. Oct 12, 2011
Link w/2nd pitch of Nurdle for an excellent long pitch Jan 20, 2011
You may want to bring a third #2 Camalot or #3 friend Jan 20, 2011