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Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 165 ft
FA: Dan & Sue McDevitt, 1991
Page Views: 1,850 total, 15/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a rare sport climb in the valley. It is sustained with two 10d cruxes and a couple of other 5.10 moves along the way. The crux is passing the second bolt. The shorter you are the harder it gets.

Location

The boltline about 40 feet to the left of The Tube.

Protection

13QDs

Photos

T-rack
Merced, CA
  5.10c/d R
T-rack   Merced, CA
  5.10c/d R
Did the dyno static, tough move. 5.8 part is more like 5.10- and suuuper run-out. Nov 5, 2015
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
5.10d
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
5.10d
I think there's confusion about this route. There are two variations. The one listed in supertopo shows the right variation after the 4th bolt. This goes through the 5.8R terrain (and, yes, the anchors at 80-feet are gone). The other varition which is well bolted and has a number of 5.10 cruxes goes up straight (kind of left) above the small knobby roof. The left variation can barely be lowered/TRed with a 60 meter rope. Oct 28, 2013
Way reachy past the 2nd bolt. Got shut down at 5'6"--couldn't stick the dyno. Apr 15, 2013
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
I felt the crux was after the second bolt. Reaching the sloppy hold out right was difficult and the moves don't stop for a few more. I felt there are no other cruxes anywhere as hard and would put the rest of the route at .10b (if you do the moves right). Dec 30, 2011
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
crux for me was the mantle at the third bolt. also, the boulder problem start is no joke (don't use the tree!). from the topo I thought it would ease to 5.8 the rest of the way but there are a number of 10b and 10c cruxes to come. it doesn't let up until you clip the anchors! can be TR'd with single 70m with ~5 ft to spare. Jun 22, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Did this again and got it clean. 3 Distinct cruxes: Down low, in the middle and up high (assuming you go out to the right). Crux up high is definitely height dependent. Full value .10d.

70m rope will get you to the ground... barely. Feb 21, 2010
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
You can rap from the right anchor with a 70m rope. Jan 12, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Crux is between the first few bolts and is well protected. The moves are hard, balancy and thin.

FYI, one of the anchor bolts at the anchor, that Supertopo says is, 80' from the ground has been chopped. You can end the route by continuing up and to the left at the angled ledge. Climbing the ledge is about 5.9, the anchor is about 110' from the ground and you may want some smaller gear anything from .3-.75 will work. The other option is to go up and to the right past 4 more bolts (5.10d) and finish at an anchor what will require a two rope rappel (or a stop at an intermediate anchor).

The Reid guide is more accurate. Jan 11, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10+
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10+
Don't know if I'd call this a sport climb. Get's pretty run out...but the hard moves are really well protected. Oct 14, 2009