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Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell, Kevin Worrall, Dale Bard & George Meyers 1974
Page Views: 2,314 total, 19/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Climb the somewhat strenuous corner to some good knobs. Climb the knobs to the blank section of the corner. Use tubing, the mixture of corner and chimney technique to get through this blank section. There is a good hold as a reward at the end of the crux. The fall at the crux is not the cleanest, but as far as the 5.11s go in the Valley, this one is on the easier side.

Location

Sweet looking left facing corner in the middle of Pat and Jack Pinnacle area, about 30 feet right of Underclingon, the bolted underclinging traverse.

Protection

Standard rack with some small gear for the crux (blue alien can be placed right after the blank crux section, yellow or some nuts right before).

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
^^^ Heady route wtfover? Its a rock climb that takes plenty of pro. Jul 20, 2017
Michael Dom
  5.11a
Michael Dom  
  5.11a
Get your small gear in order. lots of little nuts for the top. Heady route for sure. Dec 13, 2015
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
What Osprey said! haha..I took a couple of really good whippers on this when I was chipping teeth with this grade. Really fun climb once you get the sequence dialed. Sep 14, 2013
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
 
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
 
This climb is actually in a left facing corner. Feb 12, 2012
Yes, there are wasps at the top of this route. Beware! My partner was stung 30x while trying to clean the anchor. They started stinging her after she had already untied to rap. Scary stuff. Otherwise, it's a great route. Oct 24, 2011
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
Beware of wasps around the anchor of this climb. In warm weather they come out in force, and my buddy was being harassed by them pretty badly. The same afternoon another climber came off the climb with more than 6 stings. Oct 11, 2011
Keep your right shoulder pasted to the rock throughout the crux. This and your left foot in opposition are what holds you in. Don't extend upward to reach the hold after the crux or your shoulder will pop off and so will you. Jan 7, 2010
Good climb. If you have the technique dialed, it's pretty chill, but if not, you'll have to pull hard. I thought the pro was OK, but I know of at least one good climber that got hurt badly on this climb. Climb safe.
-Scott Oct 1, 2009