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My-Toe-Sis
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Am. Pat and Jack Pinnacle
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Antifa Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Heads T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Boneheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Book 'em Dano T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gay Bob's to extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold Chains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mantel Illness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Mental than Mantel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My-Toe-Sis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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People's Court T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pussy Paws S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rocky Horror Show T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wart Hog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wedge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Ray Jardine and Chris Ball, May 1978 |
| Page Views: | 493 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Crack Climber on Apr 9, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a great crag route further along the same access ledge that is used to get to the start of The Wedge (see the description of that route for details). My-Toe-Sis starts further up the ledge to the west, is above The Tube and below a huge, right-facing corner system that terminates at a large roof near the top of the cliff. Find the start by following a vegetated gully above the access ledge, aiming for a right-facing, arching corner that leads to an undercling below the massive right-facing corner described above.
Climb up the nice, arching corner until it becomes an undercling that heads out to the right. Past the undercling, duck around and under the bottom of the crack as it transitions into a large, hanging flare. There is a crouching rest below the flare here where you can compose yourself and work out the crux (5.11b), which consists of a few difficult fist-sized moves needed to leave the crouch and pull yourself up into the flare.
Rappel 80 ft. from a bolt-anchor
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