Type: Trad
FA: Bob Ashworth and George Meyers, 1973
Page Views: 4,175 total · 28/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Climb the crack left of "Knob Job".

Rappel or climb a second pitch.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos

Supertopo says doubles to 4 inches, but you really don't need anything larger than a #3. I placed one #4 C4 at the 5.6 wide bit (smaller protection was available) but the old style #4 that I carried went unused. Oct 9, 2009
FA - Bob Ashworth, George Meyers 1973.

"Don't forget the Fresno Rule," says Bob Ashworth with a smile. "There is no reason to go there!" Dec 5, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
One of those 5.8's that is more like a 5.9. I had a great time on the varied climbing, and running this together with the second pitch of Knob Job into a single pitch makes for a very classic outing. Mar 22, 2010
bergbryce
California
  5.8
bergbryce   California
  5.8
Better than Bishops Terrace. Bring your entire bag of tricks. You'll need 'em. Apr 19, 2010
Bruce Lacroix
Sparks, NV
 
Bruce Lacroix   Sparks, NV
 
Combined with the second pitch of "knob job", makes a great long pitch. Jul 10, 2010
BrianWS
  5.8
BrianWS  
  5.8
Reasonable people will avoid this area in the dead of summer. Fun climb, but lots of loose rock near the end of P1 Jan 28, 2013
michael s...
Denver, CO
 
michael s...   Denver, CO
 
really fun. STEEP. If you have a 70meter (maybe 60 even?) keep going past the first anchors you come to for a mega-fun 200+ foot pitch of trad radness. Didn't notice anything particularly loose on it as of yesterday. Apr 15, 2015
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
"One of those 5.8's that is more like a 5.9."

Because it is a 5.9! Nov 9, 2015
Sam Golden
melbourne, FL
  5.8
Sam Golden   melbourne, FL
  5.8
You use anything from thin hand to some easy off width moves in this climb, but id say it is 5.8... Like stated you don't need large cams but you can definitely use them if you have them - a #5 will protect the wide area as a # 4 would as well - just a bit higher... Anyway great climb and was fun doing 2nd pitch that also goes 5.8... Rappelled and setup tr on the 10c fingercrack :) Jun 4, 2017
Brad Leneis
  5.8+
Brad Leneis  
  5.8+
A more demanding lead than Suds up the way. Oct 19, 2018