Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boneheads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gay Bob's to extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Needles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocky Horror Show T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Dan McDevitt, Gabriel Mange, Bryan Law. January 2011.
Page Views: 3,350 total, 70/month
Shared By: Gargano on Jan 20, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


42 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The Super Slacker Highway offers a fun, clean, and moderate multi-pitch outing to the unique summits of both Pat and Jack Pinnacles. The route ascends a wide range of features including perfect hands, balancey face, steep jugs, fingers and chimneys. Short pitches, well-protected crux climbing and comfortable belay ledges make the route very reasonable. An excellent option for getting off the deck on a cool day.

P1: Choose your own adventure. Climb either Knob Job (5.10b) or Nurdle (5.8) to a bolted anchor. 30m.

P2: Knobs above the belay lead to a crack. Protect here and move left onto the face. Good climbing past a variety of face features leads to a bolted anchor. 5.9. 20m.

P3: "The Boulder Problem". Climb up and right to the base of a short face. Thin knobs and edges quickly lead to a sloping mantle. Press it out and you're at a bolted anchor. A few draws/slings are all you need for this pitch. 5.10a. 10m.

Note: From the anchor at the top of P3 you'll need to move the belay 10m to a tree at the base of the next pitch. Link this with P3.

P4: Balance through a knobby face to get established at the base of a right-facing finger crack. Jam and stem your way up the toothy crack until possible to pull onto the slab to the left. Delicate face moves lead past a bolt and up into the overhanging sea of juggy plates and knobs. Crank through this steep, but mellow, section to a bolted-anchor. Semi-hanging belay. 5.10a. 30m.

P5: "Proud Headwall". A steep pull gets you established on the beautiful knobbed face. Fun moves lead up and right to the base of the "Big Fin". Squeeze in and shimmy through the fin to a bolted anchor. 5.10a. 25m.

P6: Step right on sloping feet and thin edges. Latch the lip and press through. A short section of off-balance fingers leads to a bolted anchor on a huge ledge. 5.10a. 15m.

The plush ledge at the top of P6 puts you in a unique position beneath the Pat and Jack Pinnacles. Each pinnacle is summited via a single pitch off of the ledge. You can either climb, lower and TR each or summit and rap each.

The pitches to both of the summits climb on the north face (back side) of the pinnacles.

Both pitches share a start. Two options:
a.) Direct Start. Boulder through the short block above the bolted anchor. 5.11a.
b.) Traverse left to the notch between the pinnacles and climb to the ledge. 5.8.

P7: Pat Pinnacle. After selecting a start from the above options, move left to the notch between the two pinnacles. Three-dimensional stemming and chimney moves lead to a bolted face on the north side of Pat Pinnacle. Step across onto the sloping face and climb to the summit. Bolted anchor. 5.9. 15m.

P8: Jack Pinnacle. After selecting a start, traverse right to the notch between Jack Pinnacle and the main wall. A nice section of hands and fingers leads to a bolt-protected chimney that opens to wide-stems near the summit of the pinnacle. Pull onto the summit. Bolted anchor. 5.9. 20m.

Location

The route ascends Pat and Jack Pinnacles. Begin on either Knob Job or Nurdle.

Descent:

Rap the route with a single 70m rope. While each pitch is equipped for rappel, the route is easily descended via three 35m raps and one 30m rap.

R1: P8 to P5. 35m.

R2: P5 to P3. 35m.

Descend fixed line to bolted anchor at the top of P3 "The Boulder Problem".

R3: P3 to P1. 35m.

R4: P1 to ground. 30m.

See topo for individual pitch rap lengths.

Protection

Doubles to 3.5". All anchors are equipped with bolts and chains.

Photos

Natalie Nicole
San Francisco, CA
 
Natalie Nicole   San Francisco, CA
 
1.5 stars, only because the 4th pitch (of the MP description) was kind of fun.

The route simply doesn't flow. And I don't mean to say varied routes aren't welcomed, they definitely are, but I didn't feel as though the movement on the route was good, thought-provoking or very interesting. I agree with previous commenters that this route really shouldn't be 8 pitches; we had to pitch it out because the party right ahead of us did. Also you definitely don't need a double rack for this, ended up with a lot of unused gear.

Note for shorter folks: the move right before the mantle was basically impossible for me at 5'2. I ended up pulling on the draw just to reach the holds for the mantle move, which was a piece of cake compared to what would have been required to get to those holds in the first place. Oct 18, 2017
Casual and tightly protected romp. Beautiful features, cracks and knobs. Did it with a 60m and single rack to #2 camalot and felt just fine linking only to enjoyable big ledge belays. Could add doubles in .75, #1 and #2 for first pitch, but definitely don't need more. Other parties I saw all had huge racks on their harnesses at the end of their leads- a sure sign of carrying too much. Oct 3, 2017
Super fun face climbing on this ticket. I have to echo previous commenters' remarks about overbolting. It should probably be 4 pitches. And the 2 bolts on pitch 3 and 5 bolts on pitch 6 were excessive. We managed to get down in 4 raps with a 70m rope. Great casual day out. Sep 17, 2017
Tony Lobay
  5.10c
Tony Lobay  
  5.10c
As of June 13, 2017 the pulled-out bolt (above the boulder problem) has been replaced. A couple of the lead bolts were loose (spinning nut) and may be far weaker if not tightened.

Good route, fun pitches. Jun 13, 2017
May 20 2017-Today I pulled out one of the anchor bolts after the third pitch (the boulder problem). The other anchor bolt seems bomber, but heads up, one of the two is completely out. Otherwise AMAZING route. Thanks Dan! May 20, 2017
Carla R
San Jose, CA
Carla R   San Jose, CA
It's possible to rap the route with 2 60s, from P6 to P3 and P3 to the ground, just be really careful to the ground as you'll have only a few feet left.

Awesome route! Can link quite a few pitches if you try. Apr 24, 2017
Vlad S
  5.11a
Vlad S  
  5.11a
Really fun route! Totally worth it to get up there just for the headwall pitch, which is awesome and the summit pitch is really cool too! The crux on p6 is closer to 11a than 10a - much harder than the supposed 11a direct start on the last pitch, which is probably only 5.10 one mover. The rack we ended up using is more like singles to #2 (even for linking pitches), not doubles to 3.5" (-: The only place where you'd want a #3 cam is on Nurdle maybe. Mar 21, 2016
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
 
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
 
More like 3 pitches with a 70. Pretty fun Mar 17, 2016
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
10m pitches, over bolted and contrived. This route is an abomination. The compressor route of Yosemite. We did it in 3 pitches. Feb 15, 2016
Phil Esra  
 
Good fun.

Face move at start of P6 is much harder than anything else on the route. Easy A0 move.

The hand-drawn topo here is crude but quite accurate. The topo combined with the text description is plenty of info.

A pair of 70s gets you down in two raps. Nov 10, 2014
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Fun climbing to a great summit.

Great line, perhaps overbolted in places. The bolt encountered on the face when moving left after the toothy finger crack (p5?), as an example, sits next to a perfect cam placement.

Feel that .10a might be a sandbag on the mantle before the summit block pitches, but it's not a showstopper.

Quality hardware throughout. At the summit you can see the old anchors, then whisper thanks to the FA'ists for the new rap pieces! Feb 4, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Nice route description and just as I remembered it. Great exposure, terrific moves and the last pitch is super fun! Thanks Dan for another great addition @ Pat & Jack! Jan 30, 2014