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Black Heads
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A0
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Am. Pat and Jack Pinnacle
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Antifa Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Heads T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Boneheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Book 'em Dano T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cat's Squirrel p2 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gay Bob's to extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold Chains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mantel Illness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Mental than Mantel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My-Toe-Sis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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People's Court T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pussy Paws S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rocky Horror Show T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wart Hog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wedge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid |
| GPS: | 37.72409, -119.71393 |
| FA: | Jim Beyer & "Sully" Sullivan |
| Page Views: | 910 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Beyer on Jan 1, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This was the first route (9/78)on this wall between Desperate Straights and The Tube. I originally started up the Skinheads line. A big featured knob between Skinheads bolts 2 and 3 linked to the upper knobs. I tied off this knob,mantled and stood up on it. Before I could drill my first bolt, the knob sheared off flush with the face. I didn't ground fall because I had tied off a high oak branch. After crashing into the tree, I decided the line was fucked so I lead out left. Start at the oak tree left of Skinheads. Climb up and out of the tree and traverse left to a bolt. Traverse left (.10a) then up to a second bolt. Go right and up to the left end of a roof. Climb roof at bolt (A0 on FA)(Walt Shipley FFA 5.11) and up to bolt. Traverse right and up to 2nd crux (FA 5.11). Climb to ramp and bolt belay. The roof lunge is only doable by tall people. Ok to rebolt this route - I won't because my lunge is 8" short.
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