Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kevin Worrall, George Meyers, 1973.
Page Views: 5,460 total · 37/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Finger crack to corner, left of "Nurdle".
Rappel 80'.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

Photos

Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Great climb, conducive to running laps and a good one for pushing your limit. As much good pro as you want, though it's not easy to hang around and place it at the crux. Jul 9, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Agreed. The crux is low off the ground and short. It can be sewn up with small TCUs. Above that, the climbing eases substantially. Aug 24, 2007
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
The crux is at the start. i fell once. Then pulled the move. Great climb! Feb 26, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
After the finger-crack crux, which sports some truly bomber finger-locks with bad feet, you enter a hand crack in a corner. As Mike said above, the climbing eases quite a bit, but can stay a little pumpy, especially if you have big hands (I do) and can't comfortably cram them in the tight hands section. In fact, for some odd reason I thought the top was harder than the bottom. If you desire, there's a nice face-climbing move to a great rest about 3/4 of the way up, on the left.

Oh, and be polite to other climbers: try not to top-rope directly off of the rap rings so others can can use the anchor if they need to. Apr 1, 2008
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10d
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10d
Great stance just below crux to place gear - place 2 cams and book it to the obvious jug just before that crack widens. I struggled with the second and third finger locks, fell a few times and took off lots of skin. Didn't seem like a good size for my fingers. Mar 23, 2009
If you are having trouble with the bottom crux due to the bad feet, try this. Don't smear your feet into the crack. Just paste your left foot on the face to the left of the crack, and paste your right foot on the face to the right. This keeps your body square with the crack and makes it so you don't have to torque as hard on your finger locks. Right at the crux there is a knob that is more like a small bump on the left for your foot. You can put a lot of your body weight on this foot hold.

Most people don't climb past the chains. But you can climb up and to the right through an easy chimney/flare (.6) with hands in the back. When this ends step to the left and follow a finger crack (.9) and then knobby face moves trending left to the tree at the top of Chicken Fever. Feb 5, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Maybe harder than Serenity Crack?! And my fingerz fit pretty good in both!

The second half is amazing hand jams; tie a fridge to me and I could still hang off em all day. Mar 23, 2010
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
 
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
 
The finger crack takes great #0.3 and #0.4 camalots, and #0.5 camalot above the crux. The upper section is great (#0.75s and #1s). We climbed serenity crack the week before and thought the serenity crux was a little more powerful and steep, although the fingerlocks were a little more secure. Feb 12, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10c
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10c
If your follower has trouble on the lower crack, they can use your first cam or 2 to jumar the crack while on belay :-)

This crack eats up cams & nuts, so you can protect it very well. Great & safe climb to push your crack leading.

I have fat hands, so I could never get a good rest on the 5.9 above, apart from stepping left on the large knob about 3/4 up the 5.9 corner. However, the finger jams lower down were bomber. Stem your feet to keep your weight in line below the finger jams. The wide groove around the crack gives you some slope to work with on the lower section, and then a few shallow bulges on the higher section give you some rests to place gear.

The second pitch has a fun 5.6 chimney if you feel like taking a jaunt to the top of the lower cliff. Bring some BD #2-#4s for the second pitch. Mar 5, 2012
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
This crack would be a 5 star classic anywhere else. Jun 24, 2013
Michael Dom
  5.10c
Michael Dom  
  5.10c
Good route, good gear. My buddy whipped on his gear for the first time and pushed on like an animal. You should too. Dec 13, 2015
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Someone above said "the serenity crux was a little more powerful and steep, although the fingerlocks were a little more secure."

That is spot on. Feb 16, 2017
Vlada Matena
  5.10c
Vlada Matena  
  5.10c
The thin hand section takes well #1 Camalots. If you can bring three of them, you won't regret it. Feb 19, 2018
Mark Rivera
Boulder, CO
Mark Rivera   Boulder, CO
Excellent pitch. Definitely less powerful crux than Serenity, as others have said.

Great gear the whole way. I placed a nut from a good stance at the start, then a .4, then a .5 and then hit the jug. May be finger size dependent. Climbed with some friends who had smaller fingers and they struggled to find good jams in the crux. Upper part of the pitch is excellent, too (and, much, much easier). Oct 24, 2018