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Gilligan's Chicken
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Am. Pat and Jack Pinnacle
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Antifa Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Heads T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Boneheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Book 'em Dano T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cat's Squirrel p2 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gay Bob's to extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold Chains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mantel Illness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Mental than Mantel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My-Toe-Sis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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People's Court T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pussy Paws S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rocky Horror Show T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wart Hog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wedge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.72409, -119.71393 |
| FA: | Drone Stephens and Bob Ashworth (1973) |
| Page Views: | 2,220 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
About 30 feet up the hill and left of Sherrie's Crack is an obvious chimney. This is the start of Gilligan's Chicken. Few people will find this route enjoyable, but for those seeking an easy romp up a chimney and gully, this makes for a decent adventure.
Begin up an awkward offwidth groove to get into the chimney proper. I thought this start was the crux of the whole route. It protects with a big cam if you're worried about falling on your ass. The chimney is easy and secure. Big gear protects the back of it but the rope will drag over some precariously wedged chock-stones at the top of the chimney. I thought it safer to just solo the chimney (about 5.4) and have nothing to do with those chock-stones. Make some cool moves exiting the chimney onto a ledge and belay here, or if you didn't place gear in the chimney you can continue to the top in one pitch.
The second pitch continues up the dirty groove and takes pretty good pro. There are some cool knobs out on the face to the right near the end. Pass by a large tree with rap slings on it (the tree isn't looking too healthy) and continue up to the top of the buttress. Belay on a good ledge and walk off to the left down a 3rd class gully.
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