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Pussy Paws
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Dan and Sue McDevitt |
Page Views: | 942 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Conor Clarke on Mar 1, 2020 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is an excellent, relatively well-bolted sport climb with a nice mix of bouldery and delicate movement, marred only by the fact that the rock is a bit gritty in places. The route follows an undulating, gently arching flake feature for four bolts, then breaks straight up the knobby face to another bolt and, eventually, heads right to the anchors shared with Nine Lives and Gold Chains. The meat of the climbing consists of two back-to-back boulder problems between the first and third bolts, which use a combination of tiny holds and big holds that, frustratingly, all seem to face the wrong way.
Despite the fact that it was done in the 90s, I do not believe this route appears in any guidebook. I have also heard it described as everything from 12a to 13a. The McDevitts originally gave it 12a, but Dan agrees it is a hefty sandbag at that grade. I felt that 12c would be fair, although it's a tricky style to grade with much confidence. One way or another, I hope more people try this engaging and intricate route.
As with Nine Lives, a reasonable way to approach the route is to climb Gold Chains (10a) to the shared anchor, then suss the moves on TR.
Despite the fact that it was done in the 90s, I do not believe this route appears in any guidebook. I have also heard it described as everything from 12a to 13a. The McDevitts originally gave it 12a, but Dan agrees it is a hefty sandbag at that grade. I felt that 12c would be fair, although it's a tricky style to grade with much confidence. One way or another, I hope more people try this engaging and intricate route.
As with Nine Lives, a reasonable way to approach the route is to climb Gold Chains (10a) to the shared anchor, then suss the moves on TR.
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