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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,508 total, 18/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 20, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The traverse left offers hard, balancy moves...the crux. An amazing finger crack follows, which joins the main route at the upper lieback.

Location

Climbs the thin left flake on the main "Flakes" route. Starts 15' up

Protection

Same rack as for the Flakes, including some small nuts & cams

Photos

tenesmus  
 
I'd forgotten about that funky crossover but had to do it that way too! Kinda cool body tension to make it happen. I resisted it and climbed up and down several times till I just gave in and did it. Then the fingers are just so locker. Nov 11, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11-
Cool variation, definitely worth doing if you've trudged all the way up there. The traverse moves are fairly stout and balancy with an unlikely crossover and crunchy feet. Once in the finger crack it's smooth sailing. If you do it wrong this crack totally deserves a fair amount of PG13 rating.
For variety I suggest finishing on El Tercero, a variation of the El Segundo variation which involves a one move leftward traverse of the upper tiny flake. Obviously it had never been done, I was the first one to notice it and I TRonsighted it so I'm claiming it. So proud. Nov 10, 2013
tenesmus  
 
Edit to say that obviously someone else did this long ago. Either way, its my new favorite finger crack in the Wasatch.

The traverse has classic balancy moves under a cool feature. (And Hey! you're going left this time!) Once you get to the finger crack you won't be able to keep the smile off your face.

If you do it wrong, this crack would deserve a little bit of a pg13 rating. However, its easy enough to figure out a very safe way to do the start. Nice to find another all gear protected line out there. Nov 29, 2010