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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Stewart Middlemiss, Paul Fritze 9/99
Page Views: 243 total, 2/month
Shared By: drewford on Mar 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Flakes and cracks lead up and left to a diagonal finger traverse.

Location

Right beneath the descent from the Flakes. Can be approached from below by some 3rd class scrambling. See photo

Protection

Mainly bolts, but some rack with a few 1"-2" cams is needed

Photos

tenesmus  
 
I worked on this a little this fall but it needs a little tlc. (read) If you come up here be sure to bring a wire brush. The start feels a little like Hong's pinch in reverse and with a cam and an extremely solid piton. The middle is classic LCC insecurity but the final traverse is fairly brilliant. This is one to train for and get psyched for.

Be sure to bring that brush. Oh yeah, best not to try it in direct sun and heat. Nov 29, 2010
tenesmus  
 
Killer position. Hard start that I'm still trying to figure out. May 22, 2008