Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Stewart Middlemiss, Paul Fritze 9/99
Page Views: 302 total · 2/month
Shared By: drewford on Mar 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Flakes and cracks lead up and left to a diagonal finger traverse.

Location

Right beneath the descent from the Flakes. Can be approached from below by some 3rd class scrambling. See photo

Protection

Mainly bolts, but some rack with a few 1"-2" cams is needed

Photos

tenesmus  
 
Killer position. Hard start that I'm still trying to figure out. May 22, 2008
tenesmus  
 
I worked on this a little this fall but it needs a little tlc. (read) If you come up here be sure to bring a wire brush. The start feels a little like Hong's pinch in reverse and with a cam and an extremely solid piton. The middle is classic LCC insecurity but the final traverse is fairly brilliant. This is one to train for and get psyched for.

Be sure to bring that brush. Oh yeah, best not to try it in direct sun and heat. Nov 29, 2010