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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,139 total · 12/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 20, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is like a meaner brother of Mexican crack. The climbs are similar as they offer traversing cracks. Gran Hermano, however is thinner, steeper, and more strenuous...excellent climbing.


Start at the 2nd pitch (main one) of the Flakes. Follow the first pitch for 25'. Take the right branching diagonal finger crack to a wide vertical crack. Follow this to the top


Standard rack of cams from a #0 TCU up to 4" cam


One of the few easy .11's around here and just as worthy as Tick Fever. However, this is a more straight forward finger crack than Tick Fever and without the huge rests. Its also more physical than El Segundo. Nov 29, 2010
I am so sorry, but you asked. The late great Dave Anderson was an incomparable crack master in the Wasatch during the 80's-90's (died in a Air Medical Rescue Helicopter crash after being injured in a Pink Pine avalanche). He never reported his routes (hence the "Name withheld by request of FA party" throughout the Desert Rock series) and probably climbed in the East Gate area more than anyone except our local "blond god" Drew Bedford. He used to do laps in the Flakes area and frequently climbed all the variations on all sides of a given chunk of rock. He was definitely in a league ahead of me, rarely drilled bolts on his own, and he wouldn't even name things unless I or others suggested. He will be forever missed. At any rate, he climbed those routes free and clean, but thought them so short and insignificant and most likely climbed by Wheels or Bedford, he didn't even think to report them...and back then, many things went unreported. Nov 30, 2010
Awesome story James. I think that's one of the cool parts about mentioning routes like this. Take my name off for sure. The cleaning and grooming we did will only (hopefully) get others psyched about these classic lines. Who cares who did it first. What should it be named then?

One of the few finger cracks in the wasatch and one of a handful of easy .11 trad leads around here. Nov 30, 2010
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
It's easy to say that back in the day these would have been climbed as variations. But I think it's good to record them, give 'em a name and a grade. Proud cracks are in short supply. Good additions to the East Gate.

P.S. James, I hope you're doing well amigo! Jan 14, 2011
bheller   SL UT
This climbed and protected really well for being such scale-y rock...I liked it better than el Segundo...not sure it will really ever clean up...pity. Aug 24, 2016

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