Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Drew Bedford & Bill Sherman, 1983
Page Views: 362 total · 11/month
Shared By: Derrick W on May 27, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Starts off with a romp up a shallow right facing corner that doesn't protect very well. Step up to a stance below the imposing, steep, right angling dihedral and fire in a couple pieces. Reach up and place a critical brass nut before committing to the crux: 10 feet of small underclings and smaller smears culminating in a reach to the thank god handjam. Thing ease back from here but the climbing stays fun and engaging to the top.

Location

The obvious small right angling corner 20 feet uphill from snowflakes.

Protection

A single rack of cams from tiny to #3 and a set of brassies. Offset nuts may help with protecting the bottom corner and you'll want a 2 and a 3 for the upper section. Bolted anchors with chains at the top.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
With tenuous stances, and sparce micro specific gear that is difficult to place, this route is more deserving of an R rating upgrade than many routes that already have it. Aug 29, 2016