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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Drew Bedford & Bill Sherman, 1983
Page Views: 278 total, 15/month
Shared By: Derrick W on May 27, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Starts off with a romp up a shallow right facing corner that doesn't protect very well. Step up to a stance below the imposing, steep, right angling dihedral and fire in a couple pieces. Reach up and place a critical brass nut before committing to the crux: 10 feet of small underclings and smaller smears culminating in a reach to the thank god handjam. Thing ease back from here but the climbing stays fun and engaging to the top.

Location

The obvious small right angling corner 20 feet uphill from snowflakes.

Protection

A single rack of cams from tiny to #3 and a set of brassies. Offset nuts may help with protecting the bottom corner and you'll want a 2 and a 3 for the upper section. Bolted anchors with chains at the top.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
With tenuous stances, and sparce micro specific gear that is difficult to place, this route is more deserving of an R rating upgrade than many routes that already have it. Aug 29, 2016