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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: John Storm, 1986
Page Views: 1,795 total, 16/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Aug 26, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Awesome route high up on the East Gate. Steep hands into a slot. In the back of the slot is a hand to finger crack. Work your way up the slot the best you can. I think I spun 3 or 4 times on my way up trying to figure out what might be the best approach.

Up above, the slot narrows to a squeeze and the crack in the back turns into a horizontal finger crack. Now is the time to get serious. Make the decision which way to face and then change your mind a few times. Work the finger crack, which has now slammed shut, out through the horizontal section.

Then figure out the beta to get to the nice, relaxing, less-than-vertical handcrack above the crux.

Protection

good gear the whole way.
a few hands pieces for the initial section (#1 and 2 camalots)
I placed a #3 at the start of the slot and then some fingers pieces down to a blue TCU on your way out the steep section. Another 1-2 #2's and perhaps a #3 cam would be nice for the handcrack above and for building a belay anchor.

Head over left to the top of The Flakes and rap down the anchor there.
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
I can also confirm an approach pitch starting just left of sidewinder is possible.. We did almost a full rope length up dirty cracks to a flake system with good gear that will land you at the belay alcove with bomber chain anchors. I'd rate it 5.8. Also the 5th class mtn goat traverse left to the flakes is pretty trivial though exposed and unprotected. Nov 10, 2013
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Update on the approach.

You can still rap in from the anchors of the Flakes...

but today we managed to scramble our way up a few ledges and tiers until we were somewhat below and right of Wild Things. Some more scrambling and then we decided to rope up while we were at a decent sized tree with lots of tat. From there it was 5.something (I had a pack and approach shoes on...) to the alcove where Wild Things starts. I was glad to have a rope.

But that will get you there maybe somewhat faster than Tingeys Torture, or The Flakes.

The thing is still a ton of fun. Lemme know if you head up there soon. Jun 15, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Great write up, thanks for posting! Aug 27, 2008