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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Clay Watson, Drew Bedford 4/2014
Page Views: 320 total, 13/month
Shared By: drewford on Nov 15, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1 - Climb the first pitch of The Ripping Wall, just left of Sidewinder. 5.8, 80'

P2 - traverse west across slabs to join a line of left- leaning cracks, then up to a short finger and hand crack to a 2-bolt belay at the bottom of Wild Things. 5.8. 60’.

P3 - Climb the obvious left-sweeping ramp to the left of Wild Things on small cams and nuts to a hand-sized piece or two as the face arcs right and into a short easy chimney. At the top of the chimney, place a directional and walk 15 feet down and left to the belay for the Flakes. 5.6 PG-13. 60’

This is a quick way to access The Flakes.

Location

Rappel with a 70m rope.

Protection

Standard double rack to 2.5"

Photos

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zoso
 
zoso  
 
Booooo. Oct 12, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8
It's very pitchuresque Oct 12, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
The finish on P2 has 2 options. Right has a 5.9 move and left is more forgiving at 5.8. Nice to have another moderate multi-picture route. Oct 12, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8
While I agree with Greg on some points I will say this route wasn't bad at all. We were using it to access the flakes and I enjoyed the route in it's own right. It's well protected and a cool location. This climb get's an extra star for being such quick access to the flakes. We were up and down in under 3 hours I believe. Thanks Clay Oct 12, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Not a bad route, but not great. Discontinuous features with the odd move thrown in there to keep you honest. Might clean up with more traffic, but not likely. Would recommend to those who've climbed everything else or want a quick approach to the Flakes or Wildthings. May 1, 2017
tenesmus  
 
This might be the quickest and easiest way to the top of the Flakes. Jun 14, 2016