Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: C. Begue, R Bowers, K. Wheeler
Page Views: 1,213 total · 11/month
Shared By: EAS Fett on Nov 7, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Starts off with a thin, almost vertical slab past a couple chicken heads to a roof. More steep slab climbing past the roof on sharp holds that leads to a thin crack. The climbing backs off a bit before traversing to the right towards the anchors. Make a reach into a little corner and make a awkward move to the anchors. Quality rock with cool sustained moves.


Between Narrow Horizons and Bald Headed Babies. Its the line of bolts that climbs through the left side of the roof.


8 or 9 bolts and a tcu. A nut is nice to make the final move to the bolted anchors.


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EAS Fett
Park City, UT
EAS Fett   Park City, UT
The anchors could use some chains. There are 2 or 3 routes that share this anchor and the webbing has seen better days. Next time I will bring some chain if someone hasnt done it. Nov 7, 2009
true. It would be easy to ASCA all of these anchors from that middle tier. Chris told me he drilled the entire thing on lead with a hand drill. Makes for some interesting clipping. This whole area is really fun and although this is supposed to be one of the 'easier' lines, the quality can't be denied. I found it plenty hard. Nov 8, 2009
Done! Jun 16, 2010
If "All Chalk and No Action" is .12a, then this thing is .12a, and it is much more insecure...just sayin'...And "sharp" would be the functional word here, so get set to lose a little skin on them tips from those two-finger pulls. Apr 15, 2015