Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Clay Watson 5/9/12
Page Views: 1,595 total · 22/month
Shared By: drewford on Jan 29, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Set a belay on a ramp beneath a single bolt on a bulge. One reachy move past the bolt puts you on easy ground that leads to the obvious finger crack. Climb crack to a two bolt belay.


Right of El Guapo on the second tier of the East Gate


Standard rack


Drew kept telling me to drop my heels. I kept asking, "WTF do you mean, 'drop my heels'? I'm trying to do that!" So I went back to the basics and climbed the Wasatch's other finger crack (ie, the Coffin) with the explicit intent of learning how to drop my heels. Drew was texting me between burns, "No really Clay, DROP. YOUR. HEELS."

[begin blog]Everyone who climbs cracks tells you to do this and of course it totally works. When you let your heels fall below your toes the rubber of the bottom of your shoe grips both sides of the crack and allow you to keep your weight on your feet. You just use your hands for balance. Its a miracle how much easier stuff is when you actually use technique. You can even climb cracks with tight shoes without killing yourself. What a nerd I am to just now realize this. [/end blog] Jan 31, 2013
Tenesmus kept telling me to reach to a crimp at the bottom slab section. I kept asking, "WTF do you mean?" Then he said, "Oh sh*t! The crimp is like 2 feet away from you!"

Short people be aware. The initial slab will be next to impossible for you (or it was for me at least). Feb 5, 2013
Drew and I added an alternate start. Drilled and cleaned on lead with 3 bolts leaving the ledge and traversing the awesome rail to a little notch more in line with the finger crack.

Its for short people and called 'Shihollo'. Apr 13, 2013
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
You guy's are really good friends for making a special variation just for her. Apr 13, 2013
You guys are so sweet. Thanks!! Drew even put the first bolt on El Chollo lower than intended so that I could clip. I'll go check out this new variation soon. Apr 14, 2013
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
Nice work fellas. The alternate start was cool, still 10d? Jun 13, 2013
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
@Tyler - yeah, I think so. The crack is still the business. By itself, I think the Shiho-low start is 5.9 Nov 10, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
The slab crux is a little disheartening, but the rest is stellar!

The new guidebook recommends doubles to #3. That's a little off...singles to #0.75 is sufficient, maybe an extra or two for #0.4 and #0.5. Oct 1, 2016