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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Clay Watson 5/9/12
Page Views: 1,450 total, 25/month
Shared By: drewford on Jan 29, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Set a belay on a ramp beneath a single bolt on a bulge. One reachy move past the bolt puts you on easy ground that leads to the obvious finger crack. Climb crack to a two bolt belay.

Location

Right of El Guapo on the second tier of the East Gate

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
The slab crux is a little disheartening, but the rest is stellar!

The new guidebook recommends doubles to #3. That's a little off...singles to #0.75 is sufficient, maybe an extra or two for #0.4 and #0.5. Oct 1, 2016
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
@Tyler - yeah, I think so. The crack is still the business. By itself, I think the Shiho-low start is 5.9 Nov 10, 2013
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
 
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
 
Nice work fellas. The alternate start was cool, still 10d? Jun 13, 2013
Shiho  
You guys are so sweet. Thanks!! Drew even put the first bolt on El Chollo lower than intended so that I could clip. I'll go check out this new variation soon. Apr 14, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
You guy's are really good friends for making a special variation just for her. Apr 13, 2013
tenesmus  
 
Drew and I added an alternate start. Drilled and cleaned on lead with 3 bolts leaving the ledge and traversing the awesome rail to a little notch more in line with the finger crack.

Its for short people and called 'Shihollo'. Apr 13, 2013
Shiho  
Tenesmus kept telling me to reach to a crimp at the bottom slab section. I kept asking, "WTF do you mean?" Then he said, "Oh sh*t! The crimp is like 2 feet away from you!"

Short people be aware. The initial slab will be next to impossible for you (or it was for me at least). Feb 5, 2013
tenesmus  
 
Drew kept telling me to drop my heels. I kept asking, "WTF do you mean, 'drop my heels'? I'm trying to do that!" So I went back to the basics and climbed the Wasatch's other finger crack (ie, the Coffin) with the explicit intent of learning how to drop my heels. Drew was texting me between burns, "No really Clay, DROP. YOUR. HEELS."

[begin blog]Everyone who climbs cracks tells you to do this and of course it totally works. When you let your heels fall below your toes the rubber of the bottom of your shoe grips both sides of the crack and allow you to keep your weight on your feet. You just use your hands for balance. Its a miracle how much easier stuff is when you actually use technique. You can even climb cracks with tight shoes without killing yourself. What a nerd I am to just now realize this. [/end blog] Jan 31, 2013