Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Les Ellison, Karin Budding, Steve Hong
Page Views: 374 total · 7/month
Shared By: Derrick W on Sep 6, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Starts about 30 feet uphill from Plasma beneath a shallow left facing corner and crack. Pleasant climbing leads to a bolt at roof. From here, traverse right (strenuously) along underclings before pulling the roof onto the slab above. Clip a second bolt, and move up to a vegetated left angling crack. This leads to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

30 feet uphill from Plasma and 30 feet downhill from Purple Horizons.

Protection

A standard rack of camalots .3 to 3 plus a couple draws for the bolts will be plenty. A red TCU or equivalent in between the 2 bolts is key, or just don't fall.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Definitely not the best route for an aspiring 11c leader. However its probably worth doing if you're solid at the grade and in the area. Sep 7, 2014
Ryan Arnold
  5.11c
Ryan Arnold  
  5.11c
Get that TCU into the traversing crack after the 1st bolt... unless you don't mind 10d moves with 20-foot sideways ledge fall potential. Sep 8, 2014