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El Camino Torcido
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in East Gate Buttress
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Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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B-Positive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Headed Beer Drinkers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bald-Headed Babies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blooddrive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Camino Torcido T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Graying at the Routes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Narrow Horizons T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Only Human Var. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oye Cómo Va T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ripping Wall, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route Left of Snowflakes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Skilled Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speed Of Life T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Ramp, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57387, -111.75163 |
| FA: | John Fowler, JS, 2021 |
| Page Views: | 586 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Apr 19, 2021 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Last fall we started up this line thinking it was Plasma, relying on a photo-diagram in the 2016 A Granite Guide, but we backed off after finding it loose and dirty, with a kitty litter veneer and unreliable pro. We later deduced that the 2016 guide's photo-diagram was wrong and Plasma actually started about 50 feet to the right – which Drew (who did the FA of Plasma) subsequently confirmed. This spring while we were working on the nearby Oye Cómo Va, we took advantage of a fixed rope to scrub this line, producing a good albeit short trad route. There is a chance that some other wayward party climbed this first thinking it was Plasma; if so, let me know and I’ll change this post accordingly.
Start up a slightly-undercut left-leaning crack past down-pointing flakes (some may flex but, as of 2021, seemed trustworthy) to a horizontal break, then move right to a right-trending crack. Climb the crack until able to smear right to a suitcase-sized knob, then work up past an undercling to a left-leaning crack ending on an oak infested ledge. Join the right-diagonalling Bloodsport above, either calling it a tick at the first set of anchors or continuing to the top of East Gate’s first tier.
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