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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Drew Bedford, Clay Watson April 2014
Page Views: 477 total, 19/month
Shared By: drewford on Nov 15, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1 – Climb the green face and crack that starts just left of Sidewinder. 5.8, 80'

P2 - Traverse across slabs to a dihedral, angling towards the obvious finger crack splitting a small roof. Surmount this, then pass small overlaps towards the obvious roof. Pass another bolt, traversing right around the roof, then left to the anchor. 5.10c. 100’.

P3 - Climb positive edges and rails via bolts leading to a flake (.75" piece optional). At the top of the flake, pull the crux on small edges past a few more bolts up to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.10d. 70’.

The line of bolts to the right of P3 is "Clay, Like Dirt" 5.9

Location

Route can be rapped with one 70m.

Protection

Standard double rack to 2.5"

Photos

tenesmus  
 
The second pitch links improbable features.
The third pitch has uncommonly good edges that sweep you up and left into the crux.
The wind rips and tears around you as you top out near the highpoint of the formation. Jun 14, 2016