Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Drew Bedford, Clay Watson April 2014
Page Views: 551 total · 14/month
Shared By: drewford on Nov 15, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1 – Climb the green face and crack that starts just left of Sidewinder. 5.8, 80'

P2 - Traverse across slabs to a dihedral, angling towards the obvious finger crack splitting a small roof. Surmount this, then pass small overlaps towards the obvious roof. Pass another bolt, traversing right around the roof, then left to the anchor. 5.10c. 100’.

P3 - Climb positive edges and rails via bolts leading to a flake (.75" piece optional). At the top of the flake, pull the crux on small edges past a few more bolts up to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.10d. 70’.

The line of bolts to the right of P3 is "Clay, Like Dirt" 5.9

Location

Route can be rapped with one 70m.

Protection

Standard double rack to 2.5"

Photos

tenesmus  
 
The second pitch links improbable features.
The third pitch has uncommonly good edges that sweep you up and left into the crux.
The wind rips and tears around you as you top out near the highpoint of the formation. Jun 14, 2016