The Ripping Wall
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.57387, -111.75163 |
| FA: | Drew Bedford, Clay Watson April 2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,246 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | drewford on Nov 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1 Climb the green face and crack that starts just left of Sidewinder. 5.8, 80'
P2 - Traverse across slabs to a dihedral, angling towards the obvious finger crack splitting a small roof. Surmount this, then pass small overlaps towards the obvious roof. Pass another bolt, traversing right around the roof, then left to the anchor. 5.10c. 100.
P3 - Climb positive edges and rails via bolts leading to a flake (.75" piece optional). At the top of the flake, pull the crux on small edges past a few more bolts up to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.10d. 70.
The line of bolts to the right of P3 is "Clay, Like Dirt" 5.9




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