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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> E Gate Buttress
Speed Of Life
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 10
votes
Routes in East Gate Buttress
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Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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B-Positive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Headed Beer Drinkers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bald-Headed Babies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blooddrive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Camino Torcido T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Graying at the Routes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Only Human Var. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oye Cómo Va T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ripping Wall, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route Left of Snowflakes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Skilled Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speed Of Life T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Ramp, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Drew Bedford and Dave Casey 1985 |
| Page Views: | 1,618 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Aug 29, 2016 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
For me the most interesting line on the wall. A somewhat serious outing, expect technically demanding and thought(or anxiety!) provoking movement the whole way. The natural gear adds greatly to the experience! Carefully solo up for 20 feet (5.9) past a hollow sounding plate to a diagonaling crack/seam- you can get in a finger sized cam in a pod a bit to the right here that with a sling protects the next moves getting to the first bolt at 25ft. Now climb the alternating seam/finger cracks up and slightly right, protecting with trad gear until you can clip the second bolt. At this second bolt it seems most obvious to climb left, but this way is deceptively difficult (V5 kitty litter (KL)friction?) going a few feet right at this bolt with a sneaky in-obvious sequence allowed for passage at about V4 KL friction. Get established on yet more intermittent seams/cracks at a stance above this final bolt and build of nest of decent, but not bomber gear. Finally, boldly finish up easier (5.10), but basically unprotected climbing for 25 feet to an ugly finish in a left leaning groove. There is a pillar you can sling a bit before the finish, but if you manage to blow it here you're certainly broken- and you never would have made it here in the first place;) Speed of Life would be a 3 star route if not for the somewhat ugly finish, but the first half is unquestionably great.
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