Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Drew Bedford and Dave Casey 1985
Page Views: 372 total · 13/month
Shared By: bheller on Aug 29, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

For me the most interesting line on the wall. A somewhat serious outing, expect technically demanding and thought(or anxiety!) provoking movement the whole way. The natural gear adds greatly to the experience! Carefully solo up for 20 feet (5.9) past a hollow sounding plate to a diagonaling crack/seam- you can get in a finger sized cam in a pod a bit to the right here that with a sling protects the next moves getting to the first bolt at 25ft. Now climb the alternating seam/finger cracks up and slightly right, protecting with trad gear until you can clip the second bolt. At this second bolt it seems most obvious to climb left, but this way is deceptively difficult (V5 kitty litter (KL)friction?) going a few feet right at this bolt with a sneaky in-obvious sequence allowed for passage at about V4 KL friction. Get established on yet more intermittent seams/cracks at a stance above this final bolt and build of nest of decent, but not bomber gear. Finally, boldly finish up easier (5.10), but basically unprotected climbing for 25 feet to an ugly finish in a left leaning groove. There is a pillar you can sling a bit before the finish, but if you manage to blow it here you're certainly broken- and you never would have made it here in the first place;) Speed of Life would be a 3 star route if not for the somewhat ugly finish, but the first half is unquestionably great.

Location

25 feet right and up-slope from Ankle Biters. Look for the diagonal right rising seam at 20ft or so with a bolt 5 feet above it next to a right facing flake/seam feature.

Protection

Micro nuts and cams- micros and C3s up to finger sized. Slings. 2 bolts on route. Chain anchors.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
  5.12b
bheller   SL UT
  5.12b
Listed as 11c in the guide books...maybe someting broke? Maybe I'm just becoming light...Drew if you can show me how this is 3 grades easier I'll gladly change the rating;) Aug 29, 2016
Maybe you should withhold judgement while temps are above 70 degrees? Aug 29, 2016
bheller
SL UT
  5.12b
bheller   SL UT
  5.12b
Though of that Talladega...'cept all the other routes on the wall more or less felt accurately graded. What I wouldn't give right now for 40 degrees!;) Aug 30, 2016
apross  
Bifocals bro.
By the way, thought you were getting on this? mountainproject.com/v/last-… Aug 30, 2016
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11d
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11d
You're just promoting grade erosion Mr. Heller.

Historical note: when the route went up, the second bolt was actually a 1/4" buttonhead that I'd cinch a wire over. Some well-meaning retro'er added the hangered bolt years later. Oct 24, 2016