Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Drew Bedford 2005
Page Views: 1,527 total · 12/month
Shared By: drewford on Mar 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Face climbing past one bolt leads to this diagonaling splitter. The crack leads through a bulge (crux) and continues through sustained .5" locks to a 2-bolt belay.

Rating is subjective based on finger size. The rock is gritty, bring tape.

Location

Hike north up the gully from Negro Modelo, skirting the bulk of the East Gate. After some 3rd class (approx. 500 feet), Sidewinder appears on the left as a prominent diagonal crack.

Protection

Standard thin rack, nothing bigger than 2". Bring plenty of .5" cams--minimum of 5, more for comfort. Small nuts helpful.

Photos

Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
BURLY. There are two bolts at the start and 3 pins in the crack. You'll need a handful of micro cams to supplement the fixed gear, e.g., 4-5 purple to blue metolius. Nothing bigger is needed (see next sentence). You could use a #3 camalot after the last pin, but the climbing is 5.8 and not that runout. Good luck! Nov 9, 2013