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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Drew Bedford 2005
Page Views: 1,463 total, 12/month
Shared By: drewford on Mar 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Face climbing past one bolt leads to this diagonaling splitter. The crack leads through a bulge (crux) and continues through sustained .5" locks to a 2-bolt belay.

Rating is subjective based on finger size. The rock is gritty, bring tape.

Location

Hike north up the gully from Negro Modelo, skirting the bulk of the East Gate. After some 3rd class (approx. 500 feet), Sidewinder appears on the left as a prominent diagonal crack.

Protection

Standard thin rack, nothing bigger than 2". Bring plenty of .5" cams--minimum of 5, more for comfort. Small nuts helpful.

Photos

Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
BURLY. There are two bolts at the start and 3 pins in the crack. You'll need a handful of micro cams to supplement the fixed gear, e.g., 4-5 purple to blue metolius. Nothing bigger is needed (see next sentence). You could use a #3 camalot after the last pin, but the climbing is 5.8 and not that runout. Good luck! Nov 9, 2013