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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 685 total · 12/month
Shared By: Kevin MP on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Fun varied crack climbing that joins the upper slab of To Air Is Human and a great way to get to The Flakes. Climb a crack up into the wide slot and stem/chimney your way up to a rightward undercling to the left facing dihedral. (Under Fire 5.10 takes the direct line from the ground up this dihedral.) Beware of a loose block or two in the slot and some typical LCC kitty litter rock, but overall not too bad. Exciting moves take you straight up onto the beautiful slab, linking chickenheads for 3 spaced out bolts and some small gear. Continue up and belay from bushes or stop at the anchors to the right to rap. The splitter 5.6 first pitch of The Flakes is just above, you will need to move the belay up and left through the brush.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start 5 ft. right of To Air Is Human on the 2nd tier of East Gate.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small nuts and single set of cams to #4. Long slings on everything before getting to the slab.

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Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9
As mentioned, go heavy on the long runners, especially if you protect in the back of the wide part (double length mandatory, consider back-cleaning) but also in the lieback section. If you don't, you'll be paddling up the slab wondering if your belayer has passed out and you're hauling his limp body up to the first piece. You might get away without the #4 as there are plenty of options. Not sure the #5 which I always haul up to the Flakes would fit.

Fun route, not as grovely as it first looks with cool moves, great gear and a few exciting lieback sections on crumbly feet. A good alternative to To Air if the grease factor or a lack of testicular fortitude prevents you from sending 10d. The neighbor to the right (Under Fire?) merges with this route after a longer lieback section with spaced tiny gear and crumblier feet. Nov 11, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.9+
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.9+
This seemed harder than Plasma, but probably because it is sustained.

Cool chimney feature. I placed a #1 in the far back and up high with a double-length runner. After that it was tricky feet to reach the chicken head and then regain the lieback section of the crack.

Watch the groove at the very top as you transition to the slab. It will trap a rope.

The slab above is spicy. Have fun! Nov 29, 2013

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