Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,088 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kevin MP on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Fun varied crack climbing that joins the upper slab of To Air Is Human and a great way to get to The Flakes. Climb a crack up into the wide slot and stem/chimney your way up to a rightward undercling to the left facing dihedral. (Under Fire 5.10 takes the direct line from the ground up this dihedral.) Beware of a loose block or two in the slot and some typical LCC kitty litter rock, but overall not too bad. Exciting moves take you straight up onto the beautiful slab, linking chickenheads for 3 spaced out bolts and some small gear. Continue up and belay from bushes or stop at the anchors to the right to rap. The splitter 5.6 first pitch of The Flakes is just above, you will need to move the belay up and left through the brush.

Location

Start 5 ft. right of To Air Is Human on the 2nd tier of East Gate.

Protection

Small nuts and single set of cams to #4. Long slings on everything before getting to the slab.

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