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Wild Things

5.11c, Trad, 50 ft,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: John Storm, 1986
Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > E Gate Buttress
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Awesome route high up on the East Gate. Steep hands into a slot. In the back of the slot is a hand to finger crack. Work your way up the slot the best you can. I think I spun 3 or 4 times on my way up trying to figure out what might be the best approach.

Up above, the slot narrows to a squeeze and the crack in the back turns into a horizontal finger crack. Now is the time to get serious. Make the decision which way to face and then change your mind a few times. Work the finger crack, which has now slammed shut, out through the horizontal section.

Then figure out the beta to get to the nice, relaxing, less-than-vertical handcrack above the crux.

Protection

good gear the whole way.
a few hands pieces for the initial section (#1 and 2 camalots)
I placed a #3 at the start of the slot and then some fingers pieces down to a blue TCU on your way out the steep section. Another 1-2 #2's and perhaps a #3 cam would be nice for the handcrack above and for building a belay anchor.

Head over left to the top of The Flakes and rap down the anchor there.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

(c) Andrew Burr
[Hide Photo] (c) Andrew Burr
The big sloping exposed traverse ledge from wild things to the flakes. It's only maybe half a rope length between the 2 climbs
[Hide Photo] The big sloping exposed traverse ledge from wild things to the flakes. It's only maybe half a rope length between the 2 climbs
wild things, and sidewinder
[Hide Photo] wild things, and sidewinder
It really is pretty dang steep.
[Hide Photo] It really is pretty dang steep.
Rob on Wild Things.  Thinking about leaving the safety of the chimney
[Hide Photo] Rob on Wild Things. Thinking about leaving the safety of the chimney
beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
[Hide Photo] beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bheller
SL UT
[Hide Comment] Great write up, thanks for posting! Aug 27, 2008
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Update on the approach.

You can still rap in from the anchors of the Flakes...

but today we managed to scramble our way up a few ledges and tiers until we were somewhat below and right of Wild Things. Some more scrambling and then we decided to rope up while we were at a decent sized tree with lots of tat. From there it was 5.something (I had a pack and approach shoes on...) to the alcove where Wild Things starts. I was glad to have a rope.

But that will get you there maybe somewhat faster than Tingeys Torture, or The Flakes.

The thing is still a ton of fun. Lemme know if you head up there soon. Jun 15, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
[Hide Comment] I can also confirm an approach pitch starting just left of sidewinder is possible.. We did almost a full rope length up dirty cracks to a flake system with good gear that will land you at the belay alcove with bomber chain anchors. I'd rate it 5.8. Also the 5th class mtn goat traverse left to the flakes is pretty trivial though exposed and unprotected. Nov 10, 2013