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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: L. Dawson, M. Kennedy, 1974
Page Views: 174 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jul 26, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first route left of Twin Cracks. There are several interesting cruxes on this. The route starts by climbing a face to the left of Twin Cracks to a solid flake. Place gear behind the flake and make a hard move to get to a good stance (decking is a possibility if you blow that move). Continue up to the right-leaning slot through the roof that one traverses under while doing Twin Cracks. After the slot, go straight up the steep face via a hand and finger crack. The rock quality degrades slightly at the top, but there's still good gear.

This route is worth doing if others in the area are occupied, but it's not a destination climb.

Location

This is the first route to the left of Twin Cracks.

Protection

A standard rack will suffice; maybe doubles in the #0.75 to #2 Camalot sizes. We used a #3.5 and a #4 Camalot. Use the new bolted rappel anchor at the top to descend. A single 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

Photos

Chris Dickson
Telluride, Colorado
  5.10c
Chris Dickson   Telluride, Colorado
  5.10c
You can clip the two black hangers of "Stranger than Fiction" before busting up and right towards the right-leaning OW. This seemed to take away the PG-13 factor and made it a really fun route! Jun 28, 2016
Greg D
Here
  5.10b PG13
Greg D   Here
  5.10b PG13
A good route that is often overlooked. Start with face climbing, followed by an unusual leaning slot, capped by steep fingers and hands. Lots of variety. All of the difficult moves are well protected. Save a 0.75, 1, and 2 for the final headwall. One #3 Camalot is the biggest piece you might want, although other option exist where the 3 goes. Double 2s, double 1s, and light rack will do. Sep 4, 2013
Lynn S  
I talked with Lou D., and he was cool if we added a fixed anchor at the top of the pitch. So as of today there is an anchor; bolts, chain and links. One 60 will get you back to the ground. Aug 1, 2010