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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: BJ Sbarra, Josh Gross, Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 333 total, 3/month
Shared By: BJ Sbarra on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Look for the two black bolt hangers at the start a few inches to the right of a long black streak. Make some interesting face moves past these, then up and left to more cracks and bolts. There are good gear placements between the bolts. Bring long slings, as the line wanders back and forth a bit.

Location

Start about 50 feet up hill from Twin Cracks, 15 feet left of the old Dawson/Kennedy route Mad Arab.

Protection

In addition to quickdraws for the 5 bolts, most folks will want a small rack from .25" to 2". You can rap from the anchors with a single 60m rope.

Photos

Climbed the more obvious bolt line starting directly underneath the line. Probably 5.9. I did fine with 0-2 TCUs. A 1 c4 may have worked higher but seemed very unnecessary. Jul 26, 2013
Lynn S
  5.9
Lynn S  
  5.9
Fun climbing the entire way, crux in the first couple of moves, with one other thoughtful section midway. This and Twin Cracks make for a nice duo of moderates, good warm-ups for the harder Grotto routes.

Plus by climbing at the Grotto Wall you can be in lots of tourists summer photos, pose well! Jun 18, 2009