Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: BJ Sbarra, Josh Gross, Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 498 total · 4/month
Shared By: BJ Sbarra on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Look for the two black bolt hangers at the start a few inches to the right of a long black streak. Make some interesting face moves past these, then up and left to more cracks and bolts. There are good gear placements between the bolts. Bring long slings, as the line wanders back and forth a bit.

Location

Start about 50 feet up hill from Twin Cracks, 15 feet left of the old Dawson/Kennedy route Mad Arab.

Protection

In addition to quickdraws for the 5 bolts, most folks will want a small rack from .25" to 2". You can rap from the anchors with a single 60m rope.

Photos

Lynn S
  5.9
Lynn S  
  5.9
Fun climbing the entire way, crux in the first couple of moves, with one other thoughtful section midway. This and Twin Cracks make for a nice duo of moderates, good warm-ups for the harder Grotto routes.

Plus by climbing at the Grotto Wall you can be in lots of tourists summer photos, pose well! Jun 18, 2009
Climbed the more obvious bolt line starting directly underneath the line. Probably 5.9. I did fine with 0-2 TCUs. A 1 c4 may have worked higher but seemed very unnecessary. Jul 26, 2013