Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Perkins
Page Views: 1,433 total · 18/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This has excellent steep climbing; it is an Indy Pass classic that should get more love! The first pitch alone is an excellent 11b.

P1: Start below a short dihedral and make difficult moves (crux) to get established in the dihedral. Stick clip the first bolt or a fall here will send you and your belayer rolling down the slab and then over the cliff below! From the top of the dihedral, follow bolts left through very steep, blocky terrain. Arrive at anchor with comically large chains (who dragged those up here??). 8 bolts, chain anchor, 5.11b.

P2: Climb steep, overhanging terrain with big dynamic moves way over the ground! The crux is getting into the dihedral above. 7 bolts, chain anchor, 5.12c.

Lowering: If you're working pitch 2 and want to lower back to the P1 anchors to prepare for your next burn the easiest/best way to do this is just to lower straight down into space. Once you're even with your belayer have him throw out a loop of rope to pull yourself in with. Tramming back to the anchor can cause the rope to get hopelessly jammed in the crack at the start of the dihedral.

Descent: cleaning either of these pitches is difficult due to how steep the route is. The best descent is to walk off. A single-rope rap from the top will leave you dangling in mid-air!

Location

Walk around the far right side of Lower Grotto Wall and then traverse back along the slab. Tarzan starts on the left side of the slab in a small dihedral. There is a low bolt for the belayer to tie into.

Protection

12 draws will be enough, there are chain anchors at top of both pitches.

Photos

Bill Mustard
Silt, CO
  5.12b/c
Bill Mustard   Silt, CO
  5.12b/c
Definitely one of my favorite sport routes ever! 2nd pitch is a biblical epic of exposure and awesome climbing. Jun 22, 2014
mike h
Denver, CO
mike h   Denver, CO
Can you get to the ground from the p1 anchors with a 70m? Jun 23, 2014
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12c
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12c
A 70 or 60 meter rope will reach the slab at the base of the climb from the p1 anchors. Jun 23, 2014