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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Perkins
Page Views: 1,247 total, 19/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This has excellent steep climbing; it is an Indy Pass classic that should get more love! The first pitch alone is an excellent 11b.

P1: Start below a short dihedral and make difficult moves (crux) to get established in the dihedral. Stick clip the first bolt or a fall here will send you and your belayer rolling down the slab and then over the cliff below! From the top of the dihedral, follow bolts left through very steep, blocky terrain. Arrive at anchor with comically large chains (who dragged those up here??). 8 bolts, chain anchor, 5.11b.

P2: Climb steep, overhanging terrain with big dynamic moves way over the ground! The crux is getting into the dihedral above. 7 bolts, chain anchor, 5.12c.

Lowering: If you're working pitch 2 and want to lower back to the P1 anchors to prepare for your next burn the easiest/best way to do this is just to lower straight down into space. Once you're even with your belayer have him throw out a loop of rope to pull yourself in with. Tramming back to the anchor can cause the rope to get hopelessly jammed in the crack at the start of the dihedral.

Descent: cleaning either of these pitches is difficult due to how steep the route is. The best descent is to walk off. A single-rope rap from the top will leave you dangling in mid-air!

Location

Walk around the far right side of Lower Grotto Wall and then traverse back along the slab. Tarzan starts on the left side of the slab in a small dihedral. There is a low bolt for the belayer to tie into.

Protection

12 draws will be enough, there are chain anchors at top of both pitches.

Photos

Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
 
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
 
A 70 or 60 meter rope will reach the slab at the base of the climb from the p1 anchors. Jun 23, 2014
mike h
Denver, CO
mike h   Denver, CO
Can you get to the ground from the p1 anchors with a 70m? Jun 23, 2014
Bill Mustard
Silt, Colorado
  5.12b/c
Bill Mustard   Silt, Colorado
  5.12b/c
Definitely one of my favorite sport routes ever! 2nd pitch is a biblical epic of exposure and awesome climbing. Jun 22, 2014