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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport
FA: Lynn Hill, John Long
Page Views: 1,043 total, 15/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Jun 5, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I'm adding this route to the DB in order to make route identification across this section of the Lower Grotto Wall easier. I'm not sure of the history of this route, but it's one of the few routes on the Pass attributed to Lynn Hill and John Long. The route follows 3 widely-spaced SMC-type bolts to who-knows-what (can't see any anchor from the ground). The climbing between each of the bolts is scary: a fall approaching the second and third bolts could easily result in a groundfall.

From John Long: "Lynn and I were walking past this area of the wall and saw the bolts. We were bouldering a lot back then and were strong as God but this route looked rather dangerous, for sure 5.12 and you'd probably have to on-sight it or deck. Lynn said I'd have to be a Pea-Brain to even try it. I thought the 2nd and 3rd bolts were closer then they were and that the climbing would ease after 15 feet. Not so. It was basically a solo. I have no idea how Lynn followed because there were some huge reaches on crakopla. Must have been 5.13 the way she did it. Hope somebody replaced those old SMC bolts. They were bad 30 years ago."

Location

This is on the smooth shield of rock down and around the corner from Cryogenics, to the left of the base of the fallen dead tree. Look for 3 widely-spaced SMC-type bolts.

Protection

[4] bolts, ?anchor?

Photos

Replace the old bolts with new ones, and have at it. Apr 29, 2015
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
 
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
 
Hey John - thanks for the history lesson! Seems like the groundfall potential throughout this climb caused it to fall into obscurity as there has been no chalk on it at all in a long time.... Kudos to you and Lynn for getting up it! I have not been on this climb at all, but if it's a worthy line, would you object to having it bolted in a safe way so that it gets some attention? Those original SMC bolts are still in place. There has been a resurgence of climbing on the harder lines at Grotto Wall lately, and this could make a nice addition. Apr 5, 2013
Lynn and I were walking past this area of the wall and saw the bolts. We were bouldering a lot back then and were strong as God, but this route looked rather dangerous, for sure 5.12 and you'd probably have to on-sight it or deck. Lynn said I'd have to be a Pea-Brain to even try it. I thought the 2nd and 3rd bolts were closer then they were and that the climbing would ease after 15 feet. Not so. It was basically a solo. I have no idea how Lynn followed, because there were some huge reaches on crakopla. Must have been 5.13 the way she did it. Hope somebody replaced those old SMC bolts. They were bad 30 years ago. Apr 5, 2013