Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Perkins and Beidleman
Page Views: 1,255 total · 10/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Aug 29, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Nice, mixed gear route on the upper right side of the Grotto Wall. Starts out with the business past two bolts, steeper than it appears for the first few moves. Pull over the slight bulge and onto a slab with two more bolts then gear up to the anchor.

Hint if you want it, as you pull over the steep start keep looking left for a nice jug. To the right is okay, but more slopers and crusty rock.

Location

Far right side of the Grotto Wall. The first two bolts are obvious, there is also a boulder laying right near the start. Star Spangled Dangle .12a is just left of this route.

Protection

4 bolts, some gear, yelllow Alien to a #1 Camalot. Fat chain at the anchor.

Photos

D-Storm
  5.10b
D-Storm  
  5.10b
I found this route to be steeper and harder than it looks. The cruxes were classic Indy funk: deciphering the path of least resistance with off-balance movement through water-polished grooves and roofs. There is a hidden hold at the first crux that keeps the rating at 10b. I was very happy to have .3 (small blue) Camalot for the slab crux, though a nut would likely work as well. Jul 10, 2017