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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Perkins and Beidleman
Page Views: 1,166 total, 10/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Aug 29, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Nice, mixed gear route on the upper right side of the Grotto Wall. Starts out with the business past two bolts, steeper than it appears for the first few moves. Pull over the slight bulge and onto a slab with two more bolts then gear up to the anchor.

Hint if you want it, as you pull over the steep start keep looking left for a nice jug. To the right is okay, but more slopers and crusty rock.

Location

Far right side of the Grotto Wall. The first two bolts are obvious, there is also a boulder laying right near the start. Star Spangled Dangle .12a is just left of this route.

Protection

4 bolts, some gear, yelllow Alien to a #1 Camalot. Fat chain at the anchor.

Photos

D-Storm
  5.10b
D-Storm  
  5.10b
I found this route to be steeper and harder than it looks. The cruxes were classic Indy funk: deciphering the path of least resistance with off-balance movement through water-polished grooves and roofs. There is a hidden hold at the first crux that keeps the rating at 10b. I was very happy to have .3 (small blue) Camalot for the slab crux, though a nut would likely work as well. Jul 10, 2017