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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jay Brown
Page Views: 173 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The route itself is pretty sustained. The hardest parts are probably at the 1st to 2nd bolts and at the end, since you're PUMPED by then.

Location

H.F.C. is just a few feet left of Cryogenics and has a bolt at 6 or 8 feet off the ground (most will not clip it). Follow the flake/laybacks and then traverse right 4 feet to a sloper/mantel move. It has easy moves to the Fixe rings. This can be cleaned on rappel or lower-off.

Protection

10 draws.

Photos

- No Photos -
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
Jay has gone back and bolted the section of this route that required plugging gear. No additional gear is required now. I'll update the description. Aug 5, 2013
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
The route says trad/sport, but no indications are made of needing cams. Am I missing something? Thanks! Aug 5, 2013
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
Try "Headless Crankin' Chicken .12b". I linked it up on Saturday. Long and pumpy. Give a shout if you head over again. Jun 15, 2011
Fun route, Jay, thanks for putting it up! Jun 15, 2011