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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Jay Brown, Chris Alber
Page Views: 933 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Jun 15, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a link-up of "Headless Franken Chicken, .12a," and "Under Pressure's" .12b 2nd pitch. It is a nice, long, enduro pitch with laybacking and a dyno crux.

Location

Start up "Headless...", clip the anchor, then link 2 new bolts into "Under Pressure's" 2nd pitch. Lower down twice or bring a 2nd rope. The connection is only about 5.11.

Protection

16 draws.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
Left hand on the good hand, right foot groin level, right hand black rounded crimp, and throw to almost into the v-slot with your left hand. Aug 10, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Really fun, pumpy endurance link-up. The dyno move shut me down after quite a few tries. Is the key a two-hand dyno off the good edges? I tried static beta off shitty holds and dynos off both low good and high shitty edges. There is now a bail biner on the second-to-last bolt. If you make the move, pat yourself on the back. Aug 10, 2015