Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Jay Brown, Chris Alber
Page Views: 1,097 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Jun 15, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This is a link-up of "Headless Franken Chicken, .12a," and "Under Pressure's" .12b 2nd pitch. It is a nice, long, enduro pitch with laybacking and a dyno crux.

Location

Start up "Headless...", clip the anchor, then link 2 new bolts into "Under Pressure's" 2nd pitch. Lower down twice or bring a 2nd rope. The connection is only about 5.11.

Protection

16 draws.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Really fun, pumpy endurance link-up. The dyno move shut me down after quite a few tries. Is the key a two-hand dyno off the good edges? I tried static beta off shitty holds and dynos off both low good and high shitty edges. There is now a bail biner on the second-to-last bolt. If you make the move, pat yourself on the back. Aug 10, 2015
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
  5.12b/c
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
  5.12b/c
Left hand on the good hand, right foot groin level, right hand black rounded crimp, and throw to almost into the v-slot with your left hand. Aug 10, 2015
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
  5.12b/c
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
  5.12b/c
9/2018: now .12b/c because a hold broke on the first pitch. Oct 1, 2018