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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
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Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Jay Brown, Chris Alber
Page Views: 1,083 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Jun 15, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a link-up of "Headless Franken Chicken, .12a," and "Under Pressure's" .12b 2nd pitch. It is a nice, long, enduro pitch with laybacking and a dyno crux.

Location

Start up "Headless...", clip the anchor, then link 2 new bolts into "Under Pressure's" 2nd pitch. Lower down twice or bring a 2nd rope. The connection is only about 5.11.

Protection

16 draws.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Really fun, pumpy endurance link-up. The dyno move shut me down after quite a few tries. Is the key a two-hand dyno off the good edges? I tried static beta off shitty holds and dynos off both low good and high shitty edges. There is now a bail biner on the second-to-last bolt. If you make the move, pat yourself on the back. Aug 10, 2015
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
  5.12b/c
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
  5.12b/c
Left hand on the good hand, right foot groin level, right hand black rounded crimp, and throw to almost into the v-slot with your left hand. Aug 10, 2015
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
  5.12b/c
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
  5.12b/c
9/2018: now .12b/c because a hold broke on the first pitch. Oct 1, 2018

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