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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 142 total, 4/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Oct 22, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Yes, this is a link-up, but it's a pretty badass, direct linkup of 3 great routes! This link-up takes the directissima line up the imposing, middle section of Lower Grotto Wall.

The first challenge greets you immediately by climbing Scene of the Crime (old school 12+...++). From the anchor, continue straight up into the dihedral pitch of Rocket Man Dihedral (11c, 3" cam optional). At the top of the dihedral, keep climbing straight up to the P1 anchor of Victims of Fashion (instead of trending right into Rocket Man's proper anchor). From here, tackle Victim's burly 12b/c roof pitch to the final set of anchors.

While there is a lot of hard climbing on this link-up, you do get complete rests at the anchors of each of the individual pitches, which are set on recessed ledges. For reduced rope drag, avoid clipping the mid-anchors along the route; the first bolts of the following pitches are not hard to get to.

Location

Start on Scene of the Crime, and continue climbing straight up!

Protection

Bolts, optional 3" cam.

You need a 70 meter rope to lower off of this climb!

Photos

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Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Ya, I thought you need gear for the dihedral, no? This wall is prime for link-ups! Oct 23, 2014