Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Josh Gross, Madoline Wallace
Page Views: 1,762 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Climbs moderate jugs to a bouldery bulge crux, makes an improbable move to a jug on the arete, then follows the arete to the anchor.

Location

Shares start with Victims of Fashion (right of Cryogenics).

Protection

9 bolts, chain anchor.

Photos

Tobin Sanson
San Rafael, CA
  5.12c
Tobin Sanson   San Rafael, CA
  5.12c
Here's a link to a video I made of Josh. Sep 21, 2008
Great job finishing up this route. Talk about an obvious line, front and center on the Grotto Wall. Chip Lee aided part of this route,in '83, his high point was the old button head bolt. I hung a top rope over it in '87...John Stieger and I both free climbed up to the jug on the arete. We lost interest, though, because the rest of the route above, looked like 5.13 on vertical kitty litter. When I heard you finished it at only 12b I was surprised but now I see from the video you ended the route with an anchor at the top of the corner where the hold end. That never occured to us but looks like the smart choice. Jun 16, 2009
Tobin Sanson
San Rafael, CA
  5.12c
Tobin Sanson   San Rafael, CA
  5.12c
Dyno from crimps and a sidepull to the jug on the arete! So sick! May 29, 2010
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
The tree has fallen, 2011! Jun 18, 2011
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12b
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12b
The 0.75 is no longer needed at the start of this route. I believe a low bolt may have been added? Jun 16, 2014
Epic moves on the arete! Has a hold broken off the crux bulge? That section seems far too blank to be 12b. Jul 14, 2018