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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Josh Gross, Madoline Wallace
Page Views: 1,597 total, 14/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs moderate jugs to a bouldery bulge crux, makes an improbable move to a jug on the arete, then follows the arete to the anchor.

Location

Shares start with Victims of Fashion (right of Cryogenics).

Protection

9 bolts, chain anchor.

Photos

Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12b
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12b
The 0.75 is no longer needed at the start of this route. I believe a low bolt may have been added? Jun 16, 2014
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
The tree has fallen, 2011! Jun 18, 2011
Tobin Sanson
San Rafael, CA
  5.12c
Tobin Sanson   San Rafael, CA
  5.12c
Dyno from crimps and a sidepull to the jug on the arete! So sick! May 29, 2010
Great job finishing up this route. Talk about an obvious line, front and center on the Grotto Wall. Chip Lee aided part of this route,in '83, his high point was the old button head bolt. I hung a top rope over it in '87...John Stieger and I both free climbed up to the jug on the arete. We lost interest, though, because the rest of the route above, looked like 5.13 on vertical kitty litter. When I heard you finished it at only 12b I was surprised but now I see from the video you ended the route with an anchor at the top of the corner where the hold end. That never occured to us but looks like the smart choice. Jun 16, 2009
Tobin Sanson
San Rafael, CA
  5.12c
Tobin Sanson   San Rafael, CA
  5.12c
Here's a link to a video I made of Josh. Sep 21, 2008