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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tommy Caldwell, late '90s
Page Views: 1,931 total, 17/month
Shared By: j wharton on Jul 2, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Rated .13b and referred to as #15 in Perkin's book, this route is among the best hard climbs on the Pass, deserving of a proper name, a realistic grade, and more atention. Originally bolted by Kurt Smith, and extensively projected by Dave Pegg and Phillip Benningfield, this route resisted all attempts untill Tommy sent in his typical crushing style. Very technical, slightly overhanging climbing on small crimps and sidepulls. Granite climbing of this style doesn't get much better.

Location

From Cryogenics walk around the corner to the short, long shield of smooth rock that hosts a handful of hard sport routes. Walk slightly uphill between the rock and the base of a large dead (fallen) tree. Before There Were Nine starts on a boulder directly behind the large live tree before the trail steepens uphill. Another hard route (Unknown 13b?) starts just to the left of this boulder; both routes share the same anchor high on the slab. Before They Were Nine can also be identified by the mix of bolt types and the old rusty buttonhead to the left of the 2nd bolt.

Protection

7 bolts, anchor

Photos

Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.13+
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.13+
Yeah! A sick route with some nice granite trickery. Difficulty gradually builds until you reach the broken up rock above the 5th bolt. Hard clips. Very hard for 13c. Aug 23, 2014
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
Mike- I've updated the route description to make this route easy to find. I'll also add the other routes that climb this lower shield of rock. Jun 5, 2012
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Where is this route located? Please help. Jun 5, 2012
I cleaned this old aid pitch in 1987 right after I sent Scene of the Crime. But this thing was a whole different animal and I turned the proj over to Kurt. Way to keep cranking, Josh. Jul 2, 2008