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Before There Were Nine
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 3.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Lower Grotto Wall
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Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cryogenics T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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K - fight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mad Arab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twins For The Road T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Tommy Caldwell, late '90s |
| Page Views: | 3,444 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | j wharton on Jul 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Rated .13b and referred to as #15 in Perkin's book, this route is among the best hard climbs on the Pass, deserving of a proper name, a realistic grade, and more atention. Originally bolted by Kurt Smith, and extensively projected by Dave Pegg and Phillip Benningfield, this route resisted all attempts untill Tommy sent in his typical crushing style. Very technical, slightly overhanging climbing on small crimps and sidepulls. Granite climbing of this style doesn't get much better.
Location
From Cryogenics walk around the corner to the short, long shield of smooth rock that hosts a handful of hard sport routes. Walk slightly uphill between the rock and the base of a large dead (fallen) tree. Before There Were Nine starts on a boulder directly behind the large live tree before the trail steepens uphill. Another hard route (Unknown 13b?) starts just to the left of this boulder; both routes share the same anchor high on the slab. Before They Were Nine can also be identified by the mix of bolt types and the old rusty buttonhead to the left of the 2nd bolt.
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