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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Perkins, J. Fassett
Page Views: 101 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alvaro Arnal on Jun 16, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Stage Fright certainly lives up to its name! Be sure to get on this one if you're feeling mentally strong; for me, the crux was keeping my head together while making hard moves way above the ground with my last bolt out of sight beneath my feet! Both pitches offer quality climbing with a bit of headiness, so regardless of if you only do the first pitch or do both, this is a good climb.

P1: start up the face on the far left side of the slab. Stick clip the first bolt or build a gear anchor for the belayer if you're not comfortable on this terrain, because a fall by the leader before the first bolt will send both climbers tumbling down the slab and over the cliff below. At the second bolt, traverse right into the dihedral and climb it to the roof (crux). More big pulls and stemming gets you to the anchor (5.11b)

P2: climb up and left along a weakness until you hit a big pancake above the 2nd bolt. Traverse up and right (crux), reach right to clip the 3rd bolt, and pull onto the slab. Make scary moves right above the bolt to the 4th bolt and easier climbing to the anchors.

NOTE: The anchors at the top of the second pitch were lowered in the summer of 2012 to reduce rope drag from pulling over the slab. If you want to go to the original anchors, you can clip the new anchor and pull the mantle onto the low-angle slab to the anchors above.

Location

From the base of Lower Grotto Wall, walk right along the wall until you can traverse back left on the huge slab. Stage Fright is the furthest left route on the slab.

Protection

P1 has 7 bolts and a chain anchor. P2 has 4 bolts and an anchor with lower biners.

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