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Star Spangled Dangle
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Lower Grotto Wall
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Before There Were Nine S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cryo 2nd pitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cryogenics T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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K - fight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lower Grotto Wall | 8684 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twins For The Road T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Victims Direct T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 39.11983, -106.70002 |
| FA: | Tom Perkins |
| Page Views: | 970 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Derek F on Sep 18, 2017 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This route is a bit contrived but offers a good ride with interesting movement through a series of corners and roofs. A couple of dubious-looking pitons protect the first 30 feet (an optional #2 Camalot or smaller piece offers security through this section as well). Good bolts protect all the hardest climbing. The route takes the line of strength through the bizarre features and is basically a series of boulder problems with good rests in between.
There is a hollow, wedged block in the final roof crux that would be very difficult to avoid using — it seems solid enough for now, but it might not be a bad idea to have your belayer wear a helmet.
The topout entails a little bushwhacking to reach the chain anchor, which is located on a block that is set back a bit from the large ledge where the technical climbing ends (another place to be wary of knocking things down on your belayer).
Location
Look for the rusty piton sticking out of the steep, shallow corner immediately left of Stand By Your Van. There is a helpful photo on the overview page for Lower Grotto Wall that shows the location of routes in this sector.
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