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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Sport
FA: John Steiger
Page Views: 3,147 total, 16/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Feb 18, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is basically an extended boulder problem on killer crimps. It was the first rap-bolted route on the Pass and an early 12+ milestone in Colorado. This is the short, well-chalked face behind the huge evergreen down and right of Cryogenics.

Boulder high and make a hard first clip or stick clip the bolt. Continue up on ever-crimpier climbing to some sequential moves on poor sidepulls. There is a bit of a runout between bolts 2 and 3 but you probably wouldn't hit the deck.

You can take a piece to protect the easy finishing ground above the third bolt, as the route doesn't end until the big, recessed ledge.

Protection

This is a short route -- you'll need about six draws and maybe some long slings for the anchor if you plan on toproping it. 3 bolts; 2-bolt anchor with rap rings.

Photos

Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12d
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12d
Fantastic route and very hard for the grade! I broke it down as a V6/7 boulder problem straight into pumpy, 5.11+ climbing with no rest until you reach the huge undercling after clipping the 3rd bolt. Get enough back here for 4 more moves of V3ish climbing to reach the huge jug horn and easier climbing to the anchor. Oct 29, 2014
Alvaro Arnal
Aspen, CO
  5.12d
Alvaro Arnal   Aspen, CO  
  5.12d
Yes the first 2 bolts were moved a bit higher by Nathan Martinez to make the falls safer. Shouldn't come close to hitting the ground now at any point on the climb. Thanks Nathan! Aug 22, 2014
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I think the first 2 bolts were moved to make it safer. I took a couple of lobbers trying to get to the clipping underclean at the 3rd bolt and was not anywhere near the deck. Aug 22, 2014
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12d
Valid points, but if you fell with your body at the third bolt, you would defidently hit the ground unless your belayer ran back. I took the fall a few moves after the second bolt and was coming close to the ground, that was my only point. I'm not saying to rebolt it, but just to feel solid before committing to those moves and even though the climbing is easier than the crux, the moves are still 11+. Jun 22, 2013
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
The crux seems to be around the first bolt. As you move past the second and third, the climbing eases. Then it's a runout (protectable with some gear) to the anchor above. More bolts might be nice for your peace of mind, but they are not necessary to keep you off the ground. The climbing is fantastic, bouldery power-endurance and oh so obvious from the road. Jun 21, 2013
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12d
This route is super classic and one of the best I did at The Pass. Getting to the third bolt is pretty sketchy, and you would come pretty close to the ground if you fell. I think it's unfortunate that it was bolted like that, because the climbing is fantastic. I don't know why the mentality of old school climbers were to bolt routes so you would deck from 40 feet up. Sport climbing should be safe, and this route is not. Regardless, I think if you could have a huge runner hanging from the third bolt you could clip from a good sidepull right after the crux. Jun 20, 2013