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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
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Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: H. Carter, C. Vogel, 1968
Page Views: 7,130 total · 51/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Mar 1, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is at the top of the two parallel cracks under a roof to traverse right (crux), then pull onto a face onto a ledge to bolted anchor P1, belay. Then up to the top of the Lower Grotto Wall belay P2.

You can rap from the anchors with a single 60m rope.

Location

This is easy to find, the two "twin cracks" left of Cryogenics.

Protection

Trad, well-protected, bring some long runners though.
Carolyn
Boulder, CO
 
Carolyn   Boulder, CO
 
Great route. High quality. This route had it all: jams, stemming, jugs, and a spicy traverse. Great to new leader, good gear the whole way. Sep 13, 2009
tony1  
Yes, I remember thinking that traverse was a little spicy for 5.8. Very fun. Feb 13, 2011
Evan J  
Retrieved BD Camalot - if it is yours, pls contact me through MP. Nov 9, 2014
Andy W
Fort Collins, CO
5.8-
Andy W   Fort Collins, CO
5.8-
Great climb. Traverse is spicy but not technically difficult. Short jug haul after makes any rope drag manageable. I thought this route was easier than Zanzibar Dihedral (Weller Slab, classic 5.8). Aug 7, 2017
Ramsey Houck
Fort Collins
 
Ramsey Houck   Fort Collins
 
Everything from the twin cracks up is solid gold. I had a smile on my face the whole way. Jul 22, 2018

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