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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall

Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cryogenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mad Arab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: H. Carter, C. Vogel, 1968
Page Views: 6,649 total, 51/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Mar 1, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is at the top of the two parallel cracks under a roof to traverse right (crux), then pull onto a face onto a ledge to bolted anchor P1, belay. Then up to the top of the Lower Grotto Wall belay P2.

You can rap from the anchors with a single 60m rope.

Location

This is easy to find, the two "twin cracks" left of Cryogenics.

Protection

Trad, well-protected, bring some long runners though.
Andy W
Fort Collins, CO
5.8-
Andy W   Fort Collins, CO
5.8-
Great climb. Traverse is spicy but not technically difficult. Short jug haul after makes any rope drag manageable. I thought this route was easier than Zanzibar Dihedral (Weller Slab, classic 5.8). Aug 7, 2017
Evan J  
Retrieved BD Camalot - if it is yours, pls contact me through MP. Nov 9, 2014
tony1  
Yes, I remember thinking that traverse was a little spicy for 5.8. Very fun. Feb 13, 2011
Carolyn
Boulder, CO
 
Carolyn   Boulder, CO
 
Great route. High quality. This route had it all: jams, stemming, jugs, and a spicy traverse. Great to new leader, good gear the whole way. Sep 13, 2009