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Twin Cracks

5.8, Trad, 200 ft (61 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 177 votes
FA: H. Carter, C. Vogel, 1968
Colorado > Independence Pass > Grotto Walls Area > Lower Grotto Wall

Description

The crux is at the top of the two parallel cracks under a roof to traverse right (crux), then pull onto a face onto a ledge to bolted anchor P1, belay. Then up to the top of the Lower Grotto Wall belay P2.

You can rap from the anchors with a single 60m rope.

Location

This is easy to find, the two "twin cracks" left of Cryogenics.

Protection

Trad, well-protected, bring some long runners though.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follow the cracks.
[Hide Photo] Follow the cracks.
Bustin' the crux moves.
[Hide Photo] Bustin' the crux moves.
Protecting the crux at the roof.
[Hide Photo] Protecting the crux at the roof.
Tracie cleaning Twin Cracks.
[Hide Photo] Tracie cleaning Twin Cracks.
Leading up Twin Cracks.
[Hide Photo] Leading up Twin Cracks.
Steep, juggy pulls to the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Steep, juggy pulls to the anchor.
Carl P in the Twin Cracks.
[Hide Photo] Carl P in the Twin Cracks.
Pulling the juggy hang to the ledge. The chains are to the right. You can lower from there, or you can continue to the top in one pitch.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the juggy hang to the ledge. The chains are to the right. You can lower from there, or you can continue to the top in one pitch.
Luke on the eponymous (had to look that word up--I think it's correct) cracks.
[Hide Photo] Luke on the eponymous (had to look that word up--I think it's correct) cracks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Carolyn
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great route. High quality. This route had it all: jams, stemming, jugs, and a spicy traverse. Great to new leader, good gear the whole way. Sep 13, 2009
tony1
[Hide Comment] Yes, I remember thinking that traverse was a little spicy for 5.8. Very fun. Feb 13, 2011
Evan J
Boulder County
[Hide Comment] Retrieved BD Camalot - if it is yours, pls contact me through MP. Nov 9, 2014
Andy W
Ft Collins
5.8-
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Traverse is spicy but not technically difficult. Short jug haul after makes any rope drag manageable. I thought this route was easier than Zanzibar Dihedral (Weller Slab, classic 5.8). Aug 7, 2017
Ramsey Houck
Fort Collins
 
[Hide Comment] Everything from the twin cracks up is solid gold. I had a smile on my face the whole way. Jul 22, 2018