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Routes in Lower Grotto Wall
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Before There Were Nine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Coldfusion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crime Victim S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cryogenics T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Engagement, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Espresso Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girly Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grotto Wall Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Headless Crankin' Chicken S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Headless Franken Chicken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Insurrection S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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K - fight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Knuckle Head, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mad Arab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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One for the Road S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pea Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Scene of the Crime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Space Sluts in the Slammer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stage Fright S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stand By Your Van T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Star Spangled Dangle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stranger Than Fiction T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tarzan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tommy's 13b S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twins For The Road T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under Pressure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Under Pressure - Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Victims of Fashion T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wire and Fire T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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YQ T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Glen Denny, Bill Forrest, 1966, FFA Michael Kennedy? |
| Page Views: | 14,025 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Pinklebear on Jun 4, 2001 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the obvious inset open book to obtuse corner on the left side of the Grotto Wall, highly visible from the parking lot (yes, you will draw a crowd of slack-jawed Bago warriors during the summer months) and highly classic.
Scramble up on the ledge and get a load of this crack! Incut features on the quartzy right wall and sinker jams in the ever-steepening crack take you to a final, pumpy section of finger locks before you gain the ledge (10a). Belay here at bolts and chains, or if you have a 70-meter rope continue into pitch 2.
Move up the bizarre corner above the ledge past a stemmy section, then trend right on an undercut flake (Metolius 2 and 3 TCU's I think), passing a couple of pins to get out to a bolt protecting the bouldery, powerful crux (11+). A second bolt above this takes you through steep but easier terrain with positive grips. Surmount a final, easy roof to reach a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall. Double-rope rap from here (you may make it down with a 70-meter cord) or top out on slabs.
The second pitch can be reduced to 10+ by heading left out of the obtuse corner then arcing back right above the first bolt to join the easier finishing section.
Scramble up on the ledge and get a load of this crack! Incut features on the quartzy right wall and sinker jams in the ever-steepening crack take you to a final, pumpy section of finger locks before you gain the ledge (10a). Belay here at bolts and chains, or if you have a 70-meter rope continue into pitch 2.
Move up the bizarre corner above the ledge past a stemmy section, then trend right on an undercut flake (Metolius 2 and 3 TCU's I think), passing a couple of pins to get out to a bolt protecting the bouldery, powerful crux (11+). A second bolt above this takes you through steep but easier terrain with positive grips. Surmount a final, easy roof to reach a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall. Double-rope rap from here (you may make it down with a 70-meter cord) or top out on slabs.
The second pitch can be reduced to 10+ by heading left out of the obtuse corner then arcing back right above the first bolt to join the easier finishing section.
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