Avg: 3.6 from 126 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Glen Denny, Bill Forrest, 1966, FFA Michael Kennedy?|
|Page Views:||11,523 total · 52/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Jun 4, 2001|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Scramble up on the ledge and get a load of this crack! Incut features on the quartzy right wall and sinker jams in the ever-steepening crack take you to a final, pumpy section of finger locks before you gain the ledge (10a). Belay here at bolts and chains, or if you have a 70-meter rope continue into pitch 2.
Move up the bizarre corner above the ledge past a stemmy section, then trend right on an undercut flake (Metolius 2 and 3 TCU's I think), passing a couple of pins to get out to a bolt protecting the bouldery, powerful crux (11+). A second bolt above this takes you through steep but easier terrain with positive grips. Surmount a final, easy roof to reach a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall. Double-rope rap from here (you may make it down with a 70-meter cord) or top out on slabs.
The second pitch can be reduced to 10+ by heading left out of the obtuse corner then arcing back right above the first bolt to join the easier finishing section.